Hi All,
So today was my first chance for a run out since last Nov and an opportunity to make sure all is good.
What I learned:
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
2) I seem to have extra 'cackle' on the exhaust when I shut the throttle off which sounds kin fantastic but is it a sign of somthing wrong?
3) As I've stealthed her up for this year, everyone thinks its a Bandit!! 3 separate bikers including an SV rider said 'nice Bandit' :whatever:
4) Love my new jacket, very lightweight but somehow keeps the wind out:
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/329502
5) Jack up blocks do make a 'nice difference' both to handling and if you like the sporty rear
6) I love the bike more than ever and have missed riding too much!
7) If riding whilst 'working from home' do not answer the phone, my boss called as I was doing 60 down a duel carrigaway but never twigged :whistling: god bless Senna :clapping:
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
The brake pedal just operates the brake switch.... Slowing down is optional
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
Had this problem. Solution was to rebuild the master cylinder (after doing everything else first).
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
3) As I've stealthed her up for this year, everyone thinks its a Bandit!! 3 separate bikers including an SV rider said 'nice Bandit' :whatever:
Blasphemous bunch of imbeciles. Time for some serious waterboarding followed by burning on the stake (just to dry them off).
Quote from: Blubber on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 06:05 AM
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
The brake pedal just operates the brake switch.... Slowing down is optional
Back brakes are good on 14s if working right. I rode back from Spain with lots of luggage on just the back brake once to prove it.
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
5) Jack up blocks do make a 'nice difference' both to handling and if you like the sporty rear
Don't get me started on those (IMO) dangerous jack up kits, all they do is make the bike jittery and unstable at speed :furious:
Give it time Nigel, give it time
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 07:30 AM
Quote from: Blubber on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 06:05 AM
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
The brake pedal just operates the brake switch.... Slowing down is optional
Back brakes are good on 14s if working right. I rode back from Spain with lots of luggage on just the back brake once to prove it.
That's what I don't get Hooli, before my trip to Scotland it was great, coming to junctions I could use it without the front but now useless!
On the stand I spin the wheel and it stops it but ineffective once bike is moving. Pads are good so by process of elimination seals or disk !
There is some burnt on crud on the disk
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 08:58 AM
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
5) Jack up blocks do make a 'nice difference' both to handling and if you like the sporty rear
Don't get me started on those (IMO) dangerous jack up kits, all they do is make the bike jittery and unstable at speed :furious:
Give it time Nigel, give it time
Yeah thanks Dave, it is different for sure so adjusting to it slowly :onya:
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 07:15 AM
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
Had this problem. Solution was to rebuild the master cylinder (after doing everything else first).
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
3) As I've stealthed her up for this year, everyone thinks its a Bandit!! 3 separate bikers including an SV rider said 'nice Bandit' :whatever:
Blasphemous bunch of imbeciles. Time for some serious waterboarding followed by burning on the stake (just to dry them off).
@ Andre did you replace the master cylinder?
Suzuki riders know nothing :doh:
No, I got a master cylinder repair kit (All Balls 18-1032 - less than 20€).
A kit can be had from Tourmax too. That one seems to include a piston too. May have been the better option as there was some very hardened crud on the original one which took some time to get off carefully. The tourmax is slightly more €. After cleaning out all the crud, I put everything (old parts) back together as they visually appeared ok. Was a failure though. On to the repair kit and it works A+.
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
3) As I've stealthed her up for this year, everyone thinks its a Bandit!! 3 separate bikers including an SV rider said 'nice Bandit' :whatever:
If it was Blue and White they wouldn't have thought it was a humble bandit ! :rofl2:
Must say my rear brake is excellent and is easily capable of locking the rear as I found out last week...
ahem !
I'd say 95+% of the time rear brake is all I would need when riding sedately. The remaining time I need it mostly for convenience when waiting for green on a slope. But if you don't use it, you lose it. With that I primarily mean the neuromuscular training needed to react and brake correctly when it is needed.
Close inspection of the disc this morning and I've got a couple of lines forming on there after only 40 miles ish so may start with a new disc 😩
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 05:27 PM
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 07:30 AM
Quote from: Blubber on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 06:05 AM
Quote from: Red Biker on Saturday, 07 April 2018, 02:48 AM
1) Back brake is contributing fook all, I had it apart over winter as this started last year after Scotland trip! cleaned everything up new fluid etc but didn't do the seals so guessing thats what I now need to do?
The brake pedal just operates the brake switch.... Slowing down is optional
Back brakes are good on 14s if working right. I rode back from Spain with lots of luggage on just the back brake once to prove it.
That's what I don't get Hooli, before my trip to Scotland it was great, coming to junctions I could use it without the front but now useless!
On the stand I spin the wheel and it stops it but ineffective once bike is moving. Pads are good so by process of elimination seals or disk !
There is some burnt on crud on the disk
Have you rebuilt the caliper? I've had the pistons seize on mine a few times & it leaves me with bugger all braking power.
Yeah had them apart cleaned pistons and put back together with new fluid but no change, gonna try a new disc and probably new seals
This may sound as stating the obvious, but you do know there are 2 bleed nipples for the rear brake - you did bleed both sides?
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Sunday, 08 April 2018, 12:45 AM
This may sound as stating the obvious, but you do know there are 2 bleed nipples for the rear brake - you did bleed both sides?
Dave - just followed your instructions with the rear brake. :notworthy: Fitted some new HEL hose to match the front. Plus one on this. It's amazing how much air is purged when bleeding. Inside nipple was an endless flow of bubbles.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Sunday, 08 April 2018, 12:45 AM
This may sound as stating the obvious, but you do know there are 2 bleed nipples for the rear brake - you did bleed both sides?
I did both Dave yes :salute: it's definitely ceased with piston out now so seal replacement I'm guessing!
Not sure the seals will make much difference - unless they have gone hard - but could be. Easiest way to check is to take the caliper off hold one cylinder in and press on the brake lever (gently!) to check how smoothly the other piston comes out. Repeat then for the other side. They should both be the same.
I'd also:
- check that the brake pedal level itself moves smoothly on its spigot. PITA to get off with the springs on it and for the brake switch, but could be you have some grubby in there
- don't overlook the rear master cylinder and whether that is ok
- clean off the rear disc with some 1500-2000 grade wet and dry (wet) to clean off any mucky on it. Likewise I would also just take the top layer of the brake pads off with same (dry). Always possible Nigel that the brake pads have (somehow) got contaminated and now no longer grip like they used to.
I can't see it being the disc really but good luck sorting it.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Sunday, 08 April 2018, 07:41 AM
Not sure the seals will make much difference - unless they have gone hard - but could be. Easiest way to check is to take the caliper off hold one cylinder in and press on the brake lever (gently!) to check how smoothly the other piston comes out. Repeat then for the other side. They should both be the same.
I'd also:
- check that the brake pedal level itself moves smoothly on its spigot. PITA to get off with the springs on it and for the brake switch, but could be you have some grubby in there
- don't overlook the rear master cylinder and whether that is ok
- clean off the rear disc with some 1500-2000 grade wet and dry (wet) to clean off any mucky on it. Likewise I would also just take the top layer of the brake pads off with same (dry). Always possible Nigel that the brake pads have (somehow) got contaminated and now no longer grip like they used to.
Thanks Dave I'll have a look at all of that :onya: I can see the piston on the right side stuck out and not going back in
I have put brand nw front and rear calipars on mine nothing wrong with old ones I just wanted new t, the new back one it very good
The old calipars is up for offers if your interested
Crack the pipe at the master cylinder , bleed here 3/4 times
Then bleed front nipple on back then back nipple
This will work
But if you have a constant flow of air it must be getting in somewhere
Thanks Paul,
They did 'seem' to bleed ok but I'll try it direct from the cylinder :onya: