HOW TO Fit Individual (Pod) Air Filters
NOTE (1): This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section
NOTE (2): You will need to remove your air box to fit Pod Filters (this is not covered here)
Some of you have fitted individual air filters to your beasts, and have encountered the problem of getting the filters to fit. The throttle bottles are 43mm and the nearest filter size is 44mm, either K&N or DNA ... but this isn't really a problem as they will seal ok. The problem lies in that the centre to centre distance of the throttle bodies is 70mm ... the filters are around 75mm wide, therefore each filter overlaps into the space required by the other filter by 2.5mm.
One friend used DNA filters and had to sand the inner edges of each of the filters, allowing them to sit together better without pushing on each other so much that they popped off.
Another friend clamped the two outer filters to the throttle bodies, with the inner pair on spacers so that they sat further out from the throttle bodies, which due to the conical shape of the filters gave clearance between the inner and outer filters. I didn't fancy either sanding (wire mesh is very near edge) the filters, or having them at different distances from the throttle bodies, although in practice this probably wouldn't cause a problem.
My solution…..
I had a look at the air box rubbers figuring that I could maybe mod them to allow mounting of the filters. I found when a rubber was removed from the air box that it has a bellmouth shape on the inner air box side. So there I'm sitting with a filter and an air box rubber, wonder what happens if I try and push the bellmouth into the air filter I thought???
The result was that after a bit of squidging and squashing it fitted like a glove, only problem was the bellmouth was kinked ... one press of a finger later and it popped out into the correct shape, thereby locking the air filter and rubber together pretty securely, and since they flex slightly they allow the filters to sit side by side (at a slight angle to each other), hopefully without making them pop off.
So this is how I've mounted mine
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217230036-1702426.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217230036-1661414.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217230038-1721898.jpeg)
Response-1
I just have a couple of questions, the sensor thingy in the air box, what did you do with that?
What sort of HP increase would one see with the pods? How do they go when you ride in the rain?
Next mod to mine is going to be two extra pods on the back of the air box, to let a bit more air into the old girl. I will be interested to see what you get when you put yours on the dyno.
Response from Topic Author
I just to tied it up out of the way, but left it connected ... it means it can still sense the air temp which is required for the fuel injection. As for the rain, shouldn't be a problem as they are hidden behind the side panels, although I may mod them at some point. I had individual filters on my 1200 Bandit which were open to the elements and never had a problem with them.
With regards power, it's not just the pods I've added ... I've removed the PAIR system, will be slotting the pickup plate to give me 4° ignition advance and finally I've had the head skimmed, ported and a three angle valve job. I haven’t put her on a dyno since, so hard to say what power increase (if any) I may get.
I've also got a full 4-2-2 aftermarket system with twin Blue Flame Evo's and of course the obligatory PCIII ... previous power output (with K&N in air box) was about 118bhp at the rear wheel with 97lb/ft of torque ... would be happy with the magic figure of 125bhp and 100ft/lb.
Response-2
I fitted the 2 interior filters to a Stainless tube advancing them approximately 10 mm to make clearance, I actually tried your method before and found the clearance wasn’t enough and that they still popped off! I also used the air box rubbers in conjunction with the stainless tube.
As for the air box sensor, I cut out the part of the air box were the sensor is screwed into & drilled a hole through the tank side of the storage compartment under the seat & then put a bolt through into the already threaded part of the air box this way the sensor is in a fixed position pointing towards the underside of the tank behind the right hand side cover, sorry I can’t post a pic, my computer is a bit screwed up at the moment,
Until I got mine dyno’d she was a bit of a bitch to set up smoothly due to the pods as the air intake quantity is considerably increased, but the induction growl is awesome & well worth the hassle.
I am in the process of cutting some nice slots in the side covers for the optical look of the filters & also to hear the sound as the side covers dampens this a bit.
I recently rode for about 2 hours of waterfall like weather on the motorway, so plenty of water floating around & no problems there with water induction.
Response from Topic Author
If I find that they pop off then I'll probably go your route of mounting them but they seem quite solid at the moment ... pity the Suzuki engineers didn't put a groove round the mounting points on the throttle bodies, would've meant that the rubber had something to grip on to. I'll make a bracket up to mount the sensor on, together with my PCIII ... may even move the electrics to behind the filters underneath the tank (loads of space now air box is gone) ... means I'd be able to get to them by taking out the storage compartment.
Response-3
Can you tell me the part number of the K&N filters you used in your mods? I couldn't sort them in K&N catalogue by appearance.
Response from Topic Author
Couldn't find any K&Ns in the country, so opted to get the DNA filters ... Part number is OV-4404
For K&N, go onto the K&N website and do a search for filters which have a 44mm opening - they don't do 43mm which is the size of the throttle bodies
http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
Actual Filters - K&N RU-2454
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RU-2454
Response-4
Don’t forget you will need a 5th smaller filter for the pressure box thingy on top of the gearbox as this normally connected to the bottom of the air box. I used a piece of the Mrs stockings as it arrived 2 weeks after the pods.
Pictures of mine fitted
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217230040-1722370.jpeg)
Response from Topic Author
The wire mesh for the panels would finish it off perfectly.
Response-5
Purchased Hein Gericke individual cone filters 46mm . Went about getting original air box out, which was not too bad after picking the courage of hacking it in two. Modded the OEM rubber ram pipes which were fitted to air box to fit the new filters, by taking out the rubber fitting of Hein Gericke filters and fitted the old rubber inserts, fitted nice and tight, used original jubilee clips as HG were slightly too wide.
Just got to relocate air temp sensor, modify the side panels and dyno up again. There’s a hole in frame where OEM air box was mounted on offside just got to enlarge hole and bolt sensor to that.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217230925.jpeg)
It would be interesting to see a bike dynoed before (oem airbox) and after with the individual filters, to give a direct comparison.
mine was done with airbox and after with pod filters
very little difference in bhp 1-2 or torque again 1-2
even the graphs were almost the same shape .
i think the benefits of pod filters comes in with moded polished heads (gasflowed)
main difference is the sound
Quote from: seth on Friday, 10 February 2017, 06:11 AM
mine was done with airbox and after with pod filters
very little difference in bhp 1-2 or torque again 1-2
even the graphs were almost the same shape .
i think the benefits of pod filters comes in with moded polished heads (gasflowed)
main difference is the sound
Could you post the dynochart Seth?
I'll see if i can find them or get them
as they were on the old forum and I'm not sure if i have copies.
Does anyone have more information to add to this?
Other filter brand / type?
Do you reuse the original rubbers airbox sides and put a foam filter over it?
Looking into this POD stuff for a future mod / thing to keep me busy :happy1:
Thanks in advance
So do you need to get bike dyno after fittment or is there a way to tune yourself.
And is there really any great advantages to doing this.
No need to dyno - no great advantage, in fact no advantage to power, but the intake sound is to die for..... :onya:
Quote from: Blubber on Friday, 10 March 2017, 08:07 PM
Does anyone have more information to add to this?
Other filter brand / type?
Do you reuse the original rubbers airbox sides and put a foam filter over it?
Looking into this POD stuff for a future mod / thing to keep me busy :happy1:
Thanks in advance
In reply to your message, I used Ramair Foam filters but look like price has increased a far bit in last 6 months. http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/shop/motorcycle/race-pod-air-filters-motorcycle/43mm-ramair-foam-pod-air-filter-universal-motorcycle-scooter-kart-quad-atv-4/ (http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/shop/motorcycle/race-pod-air-filters-motorcycle/43mm-ramair-foam-pod-air-filter-universal-motorcycle-scooter-kart-quad-atv-4/)
I think I paid around £56 for the set of four.
Unfortunately I didn't take any step by step photos, biggest job is removing the airbox but a hacksaw is your friend ;)
I originally bought chrome Heine Gericke conical pods, (still have them if anyone's interested), but there is a little interference between them as they are 73mm across the base but centreline distance of throttle bodies is 70mm.
I experimented with using the airbox trumpets and even adding extensions to the outer ones but wasn't happy with the look.
Anyone that has done this mod will know that the throttle bodies are 43mm diameter but DNA, K and N, and Heine Gericke pods nearest size is 44mm. But Ramair do 43mm ones and the base is rubber and flexible enough that while they still interfere with each other it's safe to assume they won't pop off at any time which was a slight worry with the chrome filters.
Not yet checked set-up on dyno but will be done with upcoming MOT.
Ian
Thanks :cheers:
In the 'how to fit ' the 8 consecutive pics are mine, for the two outside filters I ran a little bit of transparent bathroom silicon around the inside edge, fitted them and tighten the serflex the next morning they do not pop off, the two inside filters are on a piece of 44mm stainless tube which fits nicely inside half an inlet rubber as per the second pic, they are further forward as can be seen in the 3rd pic, when I was on a dyno here the dyno guy said to me that alot of drag bikes do this, I still havent got around to adding the mesh! yet only seven years since I did them! :boogie:
What size is the 5th filter, the small one on the pressure box???
Quote from: Rh4000 on Saturday, 31 August 2019, 02:41 AM
What size is the 5th filter, the small one on the pressure box???
From memory, it was a Ripspeed Universal filter that I bought from Halfords (but available elsewhere), when I modified mine, all I added was a circlip to hold it in place securely
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-parts/filtration/air-filters/ripspeed-universal-vent-filter-gauze-chrome-finish-red
Just browsing eBay, I suspect something like this crankcase/vent breather may also possibly fit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12MM-Carbon-Crank-Case-EngIne-Breather-Air-Filter-Car-Motorcycle-Quad-Bike/283453980706?epid=26010596753&hash=item41ff2c8022:g:0SkAAOSw5HBbSCrT
DNA-OV-4404 ;) and use wee mini dremel on side edges ;)
What they look like 😉
Better pic
The small one is 13mm, I measured it, ordered a mini breather foam filter from ram air, going for the ram air pod filters too, same as Ians :onya:
Quote from: Big Geordi on Sunday, 01 September 2019, 06:38 PM
Better pic
Where did you get the blowby plate, anyone know where I can get one or who makes them?
There was a guy on the old org who made them I'm not sure they have been available for a few years now .
Hopefully someone here has more info as I know 1 of the orgsters over in northern Europe has made something very simular but I can't remember his name .
:cheers:
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 12 September 2019, 09:45 AM
There was a guy on the old org who made them I'm not sure they have been available for a few years now .
Hopefully someone here has more info as I know 1 of the orgsters over in northern Europe has made something very simular but I can't remember his name .
:cheers:
What he says ;)
Quote from: Rh4000 on Thursday, 12 September 2019, 09:30 AM
Quote from: Big Geordi on Sunday, 01 September 2019, 06:38 PM
Better pic
Where did you get the blowby plate, anyone know where I can get one or who makes them?
Someone on one of the Facebook groups had one recently that was 3D-printed. The materials used were spec'd beyond any temps the motor would produce in that area. Not sure who it was, might have been McLean Racing.
Yes, it's a mate of John McLeans that can make them.
There's a thread on the GSX1400 Alternative Gathering Point Facebook page.
He's not doing them at the moment but maybe again in the future.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Sunday, 15 September 2019, 07:07 PM
Quote from: Rh4000 on Thursday, 12 September 2019, 09:30 AM
Quote from: Big Geordi on Sunday, 01 September 2019, 06:38 PM
Better pic
Where did you get the blowby plate, anyone know where I can get one or who makes them?
Someone on one of the Facebook groups had one recently that was 3D-printed. The materials used were spec'd beyond any temps the motor would produce in that area. Not sure who it was, might have been McLean Racing.
That looks a beast, does it say 1,700 on the side?
Yes, 1700. :worshippy: I believe it is for a drag racer.
John's 1700 dragbike....
Any idea of what hp it puts out? What are his times? just interested
Guys - can we keep on topic please, this thread is a stickied HOW TO thread about pod filters.
All interesting about John McLeans dragster, but can I suggest a separate topic if you wish to discuss it.
Thanks
My airpods arrived today so I fit them up to the engine. Im not sure if I missed something or mine are different to what others use, but they fit up quite easily (very tight together) .
There is a difference of opinion as to wether I will need to dyno tune or not, can anyone give a definitive answer?
Thanks
Andrew
The "definitive answer" will be what you do.
A dyno run to see if dyno tuning is needed is my answer :)
Well... I took my bike for its first run with the pod filters today (or I tried to).
The bike started easily, but as soon as I backed off throttle the engine stalled (going downhill). Every time I came to a stop the bike stalled. Once it was going it seemed ok, I only went to about 3500rpm in 2nd as I was only in the back streets around my home.
So now I have 3 options, 1-try to refit the original airbox with the engine in the bike (serious modifications will be needed), 2- remove engine and refit airbox, 3-buy power commander and get it dynotuned $$$$$...
No 1 it is going to be. I will update tomorrow with my progress, or lack of.
Quote from: insane1400 on Monday, 29 June 2020, 08:42 PM
Well... I took my bike for its first run with the pod filters today (or I tried to).
The bike started easily, but as soon as I backed off throttle the engine stalled (going downhill). Every time I came to a stop the bike stalled. Once it was going it seemed ok, I only went to about 3500rpm in 2nd as I was only in the back streets around my home.
So now I have 3 options, 1-try to refit the original airbox with the engine in the bike (serious modifications will be needed), 2- remove engine and refit airbox, 3-buy power commander and get it dynotuned $$$$$...
No 1 it is going to be. I will update tomorrow with my progress, or lack of.
Try resetting the tickover and/or adjusting the throttle cables first. On my K7, I found when I first got it, that if I backed off approaching junctions the engine would cut, basically the throttle cables were out of adjustment. Adjusted them as per the handbook for slack and all was good
Sooo.... new fuel pump, new fuel filter asembly, new teabag etc. I also got the injectors cleaned which was actually a waste of money as there was no difference from before and after, they were fine before they were cleaned (but of course they still cleaned them and charged me)
Anyway once the bike started up (with the pod filters on) it ran perfectly, I went for a short test run and up to about 5K its running great, even smoother than before.
I will keep you posted , but fingers crossed there wont be any need for a dyno.
I'd get a dyno run done anyway, you might find it's lean in some areas without you noticing to ride it. Just a power run isn't a huge expense compared to the peace of mind.
Hi
sorry my english is not so god but I try
Is the gsx 1400 running god with open airpods ??
regard Denis
To run with pods you will need to have a remap and probably a power commander.
(autocorrect was playing up again Seth)
Hi I have just removed my airbox to fit pod filters and now when I start the bike it idles at 5k and I am getting chec on the dash.can anyone help
There are two fuel injection monitors on the right side of the airbox, one is for air temp ((IAT) and the other air pressure (AP), are these still connected?
Wow, 'idling' at 5k....
Check everything is still connected as said and that you have got the throttle cables snagged.
Other than that you'll need to balance the throttle bodies and also check the tps&stps.
You'll also need it mapped as you are changing the amount of air over standard.
I can send pictures of how to mount the sensors but not here as I can't get that to work .
I have checked all connections and they all seem ok. And i am getting a c28 code.
C-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)
I had similar, C28 code and stuttering at low speed, the actuator control was working fine from a cold start, would idle at 2500rpm and steadily drop as engine temp increased. I recall seeing a post on how to access and reglue the magnet into place. Before I did that though, Hooli posted about the STPS being dodgy. I checked that and that sensor did not give a consistent reading through the rpm range. Replaced the STPS and no more C28 codes, and no more low speed stuttering. May be worth a check, these sensors are getting old now.
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:16 AMC-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)
would this being faulty cause it to idle at that high.
I don't believe so. If the actuator fails, then it won't idle at all, I would think.
Removing the airbox and the sensors, the ecu has no idea about how much fuel to add in, so it's just guessing, dumping in a lot of fuel to keep thr engine running. A snagged throttle cable could also cause the high idle, or the manual adjuster on the lhs could be stuck.
You need to make a bracket to mount the IAT and AP sensors close to the middle between pods #2 and #3.
Quote from: Turbo91 on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 05:22 PMQuote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:16 AMC-28 is the throttle position valve actuator fault
You need to check a few things
I can't post pictures these days but if you go to the downloads and look at part one of the suzuki workshop manual the section 4-42 show exactly how to test it .
Some people have had problems with the magnets coming lose in the stepper motor (the square bit between the throttle bodies at the rear)
would this being faulty cause it to idle at that high.
Possibly if it's stuck at one end of it's travel. It rotates 'backwards' to control the fast idle when cold after all.