HOW TO Clean Brake Calipers
NOTE: This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section
WARNING: If you are not sure ask questions before tackling anything SAFETY CRITICAL such as brakes, ask a more experienced friend to come and lend a hand the first time, but with care and a methodical approach, almost anyone can clean and check their calipers.
I thoroughly recommend a workshop manual before you start fiddling with your bike, it is invaluable for wear limits and torque settings, and the photographs speak a thousand words when you have forgotten where the pile of bits lying on the floor came from!
A nice clean work area and if you have to sit on the floor get yourself a cushion for your poor little bum. A container with clean water and a paint brush for cleaning the calipers I find ordinary bike cleaner (like muck off) does a good job of the cleaning, if the calipers are particularly crusty the Meguiar’s alloy wheel cleaner does a great job but you do need to wash it off swiftly and thoroughly.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014730-1241588.jpeg)
So we take the brake pads out first for inspection and to enable us to remove the caliper from the fork leg. (if you intend to put the old pads back in, it is a good idea to make sure you know where they came from so you can replace them into the same side of the same caliper, doing one caliper at a time helps with this task).
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014734-1261245.jpeg)
Now take a good look at your pads, they should still have the wear grooves showing and they should both be worn evenly, if one is worn markedly more than the other you have problems with sticking pistons (that may need a bit more effort to free off but more of that later) as you can see my pads still have plenty of meat on them and are worn nice and evenly. Minimum thickness specifications are shown in the workshop manual if you are not sure.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014733-126188.jpeg)
Now we can remove the caliper from the fork leg, do not twist or strain the brake hose and do not allow the caliper to hang from the hose, keep the caliper supported at all times (a bit of string between caliper and handle bar if you get disturbed and need to leave the job for a while).
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014737-128263.jpeg)
Filthy caliper yuck! Now I squirt on the motorcycle cleaner (muck off etc.) and give it a good scrubbing with my paint brush and then a good scrub around the pistons using an old tooth brush using plenty of clean water to rinse the cleaner and dirt off. Aerosol brake cleaners may help with the final cleaning if you still have hard to shift filth.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014721-1191166.jpeg)
Once clean I use my fingers to push the pistons back in to the caliper body as far as they will go, they should slide easily if they are clean and in good condition, I would not attempt to push rusty pistons back into the caliper as doing so will damage the seals (not good, refer to manual and experienced friend if you have rusty pistons).
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014722-119670.jpeg)
When pushing one piston in it is quite common for another to attempt to come, out this is to be avoided by developing fingers like octopus tentacles and keeping an eye on all six pistons at the same time (taking the fluid reservoir cap off can help reduce pressure but if the same pads are going back in is not always necessary) if a piston is sticky a g clamp can be used across the piston and caliper body to help push it back. Be gentle and do not operate the brake lever without the pads and something the same thickness as the disk in the caliper as you could cause a piston to pop out (not a total disaster but will require the system to be bleed of the air you just let in!)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014724-1211337.jpeg)
So the caliper is nice and clean, all the pistons move in and out smoothly, all that remains is to put it back on, whilst servicing this time I thought I would change the Nasty Crusty standard caliper body screws for some nice shiny S/S ones that I bought off e-bay. I use copaslip where ever possible, that way hopefully I only struggle to disassemble things the first time and all subsequent work is relatively free of stuck fasteners (copaslip is particularly important when using S/S fastenings in aluminium).
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014725-119498.jpeg)
I also always use a torque wrench on all safety critical components (and delicate expensive ones!) and recommend you get one if you want to do this sort of work yourself (one buggered thread with the agro of getting a repair/helicoil/weld and it would have paid for itself) some people have a knack for tightening things by “feel†and are very good at it, most people tend to over tighten and are surprised when a thread strips.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014727-122385.jpeg)
I then replaced the caliper body screws one at a time remembering both the copper slip and the torque wrench.
Then it is time to put the pads back in (remembering what side of the disc they came from and replacing them in the same side!) copper slip on the pad retaining pin, refit the anti-rattle shim and lastly give the brake lever a few pumps to bring the pads back into contact with the disk (you don’t want to forget this bit as it will scare the sh*t out of you on your first ride and can end in disaster).
Stand back and admire shiny clean caliper that I now know is working fine.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-050217014730-1241656.jpeg)
One down one to go, exactly the same with the other side.
I like to do this to my calipers at least twice a year, at the end of winter to thoroughly wash all the salt away, and at the end of summer ready for the crappy weather when sticking substandard brakes are a nightmare.
Playing like this with your bike lets you get to know it better, gets you to clean it better, gives you a better chance of spotting things that need attention before they let you down or cause more problems. And it’s a pleasant way to spend your time rather than rotting away in front of the box.
I find Mr Sheen polish is great as it has a form of degreaser in it
Great article. What calliper bolts did you use and what grade stainless steel are they?
Personally I used the Stainless caliper bolts from Probolt for the caliper body and the Titanium ones for bolting the caliper to the fork slider.
Caliper bolts (Front):
https://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless-steel-front-brake-caliper-pinch-bolt-set-6ssfbcalip20.html
Caliper bolts (Rear):
https://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless-steel-rear-brake-caliper-pinch-bolt-set-3ssrbcalip30.html
Caliper to Fork Slider Mount Bolts:
https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium-front-brake-caliper-mount-bolt-kit-26-1.html
Caliper Rear Mount Bolts:
https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium-rear-brake-caliper-mount-bolt-kit-116.html
UPDATE October 2021: Probolt have re-numbered some of their kits
- Front stainless Brake Caliper Pinch Kit (x8) Part ref:SSFBCALIP20
- Front stainless mounting bolt kit (x4) Part ref:SSFBMON90
Great article, better than a Haynes manual :) know what I'll be doing this weekend
I'll vouch for the twice a year rule. Normally I never do the mileage to need doing twice. I find they start to feel 'wooden' and go off mid-summer.
Again - I'll give a shout for Mr Sheen. Great stuff. Spray on. Leave. Wipe off with a microfibre cloth. It just eats all the dirt outside the callipers.
Top article... :hat:
Car alloy wheel cleaner gets 99% of the crud off with little effort, just scrub it on with a paint brush. It's designed to remove brake dust from alloy stuff after all.
I'd also recommend a dab of thread lock on the pad retaining pin as over the years I've now had two fall out.
This thread is awesome. Thanks for sharing.
I actually have done the cleaning as showned. But the brakes are still grabbing on to tight. The callipers were so dirty. I spent 2 days scrubbing and still they were far from perfect shine.
So I decided to rebuild both front callipers. What you guys think. The bike has 66000km, never has it been done I suspect and neither has it ever been clean properlly on previous brake pad changes. All the dirt which accumulated has been pushed in through the seals...and that is a no no.
Do I have to order the Nº 3 which is part Nº 59100-40870-000? that would be the correct set, wouldn't it?
Cheers
What do you mean 'grabbing on too tight'? Are they not releasing when you let go of the brake lever? or are they 'severe' & snatchy?
Either way, I'd be inclined to strip apart n have a look inside, might be full of gunk, seen it before on another thread on these. The pistons are most likely to be OK, just seal / overhaul kit at hand then strip down.
I recently put 4 pot calipers on mine, today I thought I'd see what's what with the 6 potters, pistons are rooted, seals look ok but at around $300 for pistons I don't think I'm gonna refurb these ones.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 28 February 2020, 03:28 PM
What do you mean 'grabbing on too tight'? Are they not releasing when you let go of the brake lever? or are they 'severe' & snatchy?
Either way, I'd be inclined to strip apart n have a look inside, might be full of gunk, seen it before on another thread on these. The pistons are most likely to be OK, just seal / overhaul kit at hand then strip down.
What I meant by grabbing too much is, with the wheel of the ground, it's kind of hard to spin it. Shouldn't it slightly grad the disk? They seems to brake fine with two fingers only!
Thanks for the tip. I will just perform a complete service and change the boots and seals!
Cheers
Quote from: Jambo on Friday, 28 February 2020, 07:47 PM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 28 February 2020, 03:28 PM
What do you mean 'grabbing on too tight'? Are they not releasing when you let go of the brake lever? or are they 'severe' & snatchy?
Either way, I'd be inclined to strip apart n have a look inside, might be full of gunk, seen it before on another thread on these. The pistons are most likely to be OK, just seal / overhaul kit at hand then strip down.
What I meant by grabbing too much is, with the wheel of the ground, it's kind of hard to spin it. Shouldn't it slightly grad the disk? They seems to brake fine with two fingers only!
Thanks for the tip. I will just perform a complete service and change the boots and seals!
Cheers
"kind of hard to spin" is relative. Try this: Loosen the mounting bolts (both sides) then finger-tighten them and unscrew them again just a touch. Now spin the wheel and pull the brake lever at the same time. Hold the lever and tighten the mounting bolts.
Is the wheel in properly? When installing the wheel, the pinch bolts on the right should not be tighten until after you pushed down on the top yoke a few times.
Might also be that the discs are no longer floating - try freeing the bobbins https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=211.0
I'm sticking with 6 pots.
I reckon your disc is below the wear limit, you may need to consider a new one before the MOT....... :lol:
Those are definitely floating discs !! :rofl2:
Quote from: Andre on Friday, 28 February 2020, 08:25 PM
Quote from: Jambo on Friday, 28 February 2020, 07:47 PM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 28 February 2020, 03:28 PM
What do you mean 'grabbing on too tight'? Are they not releasing when you let go of the brake lever? or are they 'severe' & snatchy?
Either way, I'd be inclined to strip apart n have a look inside, might be full of gunk, seen it before on another thread on these. The pistons are most likely to be OK, just seal / overhaul kit at hand then strip down.
What I meant by grabbing too much is, with the wheel of the ground, it's kind of hard to spin it. Shouldn't it slightly grad the disk? They seems to brake fine with two fingers only!
Thanks for the tip. I will just perform a complete service and change the boots and seals!
Cheers
"kind of hard to spin" is relative. Try this: Loosen the mounting bolts (both sides) then finger-tighten them and unscrew them again just a touch. Now spin the wheel and pull the brake lever at the same time. Hold the lever and tighten the mounting bolts.
Is the wheel in properly? When installing the wheel, the pinch bolts on the right should not be tighten until after you pushed down on the top yoke a few times.
How about very hard to spin. Back wheel gives no resistence compared!
I will try retighten the mounting bolts while braking. I did that on my bicycle front disk! :facepalm:
Front wheel untouched...for now!
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Friday, 28 February 2020, 08:28 PM
Might also be that the discs are no longer floating - try freeing the bobbins https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=211.0
The disk is floating, I can move the disk side to the side. But even so, I will perform the bolt and nut procedure, just to make sure all bobbins are free.
Quote from: DP1400 on Sunday, 01 March 2020, 07:42 PM
I reckon your disc is below the wear limit, you may need to consider a new one before the MOT....... :lol:
I can't feel any diference with my fingers. Unlike the rear disk which I can feel a diference with my finger. Only measurements are accurate I suppose!
In Portugal, motorcycles are not subjected to periodic inspections like the four wheels or more!
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Sunday, 01 March 2020, 07:23 PM
I'm sticking with 6 pots.
:facepalm:
Cheers
Quote from: Jambo on Friday, 28 February 2020, 03:04 PM
This thread is awesome. Thanks for sharing.
I actually have done the cleaning as showned. But the brakes are still grabbing on to tight. The callipers were so dirty. I spent 2 days scrubbing and still they were far from perfect shine.
So I decided to rebuild both front callipers. What you guys think. The bike has 66000km, never has it been done I suspect and neither has it ever been clean properlly on previous brake pad changes. All the dirt which accumulated has been pushed in through the seals...and that is a no no.
Do I have to order the Nº 3 which is part Nº 59100-40870-000? that would be the correct set, wouldn't it?
Cheers
That is the correct part #. Sounds like a good idea to put these in new, inclusive a good cleaning of the seats for them. Red rubber grease for the seals would be good too.
Are the pads worn unevenly? If they are and you switched them they could cause the problem with the hard spin. Also check if the pins that hold the pads don't have rough spots that cause them not to glide sufficiently. The holes in the pads where the pins go through should also be smooth.
In the end maybe all that is needed is to take the bike for a spin and do some forced breaking to have things settle in right :whatever:
Is it binding on one caliper or both! I had a problem once when it was only one, less to concentrate on.
I would like to start with saying, I am sorry for highjacking this thread. Won't do that again!
I have managed to free up the front wheel. I tried the method suggested but in any case it got worst.
What I did was, took out the mounting bolts. Gently forced the pistons back in. Re-tightened the mounting bolts and pumped the brake lever very slowly so all the pistons come out. Wheel off the ground and now I can rotate wheel whith my hand, but still not perfect.
The are the bobbins to be delt with. I am sure after the procedure, front wheel will rotate even better!
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 28 February 2020, 03:28 PM
What do you mean 'grabbing on too tight'? Are they not releasing when you let go of the brake lever? or are they 'severe' & snatchy?
Either way, I'd be inclined to strip apart n have a look inside, might be full of gunk, seen it before on another thread on these. The pistons are most likely to be OK, just seal / overhaul kit at hand then strip down.
That is the way I am heading. Thanks for the guidance!
Cheers
Well I must say a big thank you to this forum and Gsxbarmy for his fantastic write up on cleaning the brake calipers.
I have a K3 that I acquired a couple of years ago. It was rather unloved, but with some money and TLC it has come up beautifully, however, the brakes have become really rather wooden.
I had planned to clean the calipers, buy some braided hoses and change the brake fluid. Yesterday, I methodically went through gsxbarmy's instructions, replaced the calipers and torqued everything up.
I've not been out of the house for 3 weeks but took the bike slowly to the chemist on a legitimate journey and am really pleased with the improvement in performance. The brakes now "feel" much better. So much so, that I'm going to leave the existing hoses but replace the brake fluid. Result!
Sounds like a plan to me. My hoses are original & the brakes on mine are still fine.
Gave mine a bit of a rub down and a clean off, then masked the bits with the pistons. Repainted, new fittings, and used a Dremel to carefully polish the paint off of the logo. Then replaced the brake hoses as they were the original ones and looked a bit tired. Think they look OK for a quick refresh. None of the pistons were seized so no further work required.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214755-865490.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214804-8661750.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214936-8672397.jpeg)
They look great mate. :onya: :clapping:
@numbskull They've come up a treat.
I rate those Wezmoto lines too. I've fitted them all round on mine including the clutch line :onya:
Quote from: froudy on Monday, 13 April 2020, 11:13 PM
@numbskull They've come up a treat.
I rate those Wezmoto lines too. I've fitted them all round on mine including the clutch line :onya:
Got one fitted to the rear brake as well, but not done the clutch yet. Is the clutch any worse to do? Looks as though the hose is significantly longer and with more complex routing.
Quote from: numbskull on Monday, 13 April 2020, 11:37 PM
Quote from: froudy on Monday, 13 April 2020, 11:13 PM
@numbskull They've come up a treat.
I rate those Wezmoto lines too. I've fitted them all round on mine including the clutch line :onya:
Got one fitted to the rear brake as well, but not done the clutch yet. Is the clutch any worse to do? Looks as though the hose is significantly longer and with more complex routing.
Yes, the clutch line is quite a bit longer than any of the brake lines. Easy enough to change though.
Clutch looks easy enough, once you take the tank off.
Having said that my lines are all original & work fine so I'm not changing them.
Couple months ago my brother sent me braided line from his stunt bike (left hand-rear brake) and it's cca 40 cm longer than gsx clutch line so I had to reroute it. Now it's going on RH side of the frame, around airbox and down to clutch cylinder and it works great :cheers:
Quote from: numbskull on Monday, 13 April 2020, 10:00 PM
Gave mine a bit of a rub down and a clean off, then masked the bits with the pistons. Repainted, new fittings, and used a Dremel to carefully polish the paint off of the logo. Then replaced the brake hoses as they were the original ones and looked a bit tired. Think they look OK for a quick refresh. None of the pistons were seized so no further work required.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214755-865490.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214804-8661750.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/2603-130420214936-8672397.jpeg)
Great job mate they look like real gold :stir: :stir: :stir: :stir:
Numbskull, unreal job. That is the best pic ive seen of calipers, front wheel etc. Looks so good, mine now hiding, they feel inferior. Top job
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 14 April 2020, 07:09 PM
Numbskull, unreal job. That is the best pic ive seen of calipers, front wheel etc. Looks so good, mine now hiding, they feel inferior. Top job
How clean do those wheels look
@grog ???????? :whatever: :whatever:
GSX, much cleaner than mine after i clean mine. I mean, when i really try hard. My rims are black, id be a no show with white. You blokes amaze me with what you do. :hat:
Mine
:redcard:
All - can we keep this on topic please, it's a help file on cleaning brake calipers, not wheels.
Thanks
If anyone's interested in the paint, it's here: https://pokolimited.co.uk/brake-caliper-paint-p-14.html (https://pokolimited.co.uk/brake-caliper-paint-p-14.html)
Replacement bolts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSX-1400-K1-K7-Stainless-joint-bolt-set-Tokico-6-pot-front-brake-calipers/161156166914 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSX-1400-K1-K7-Stainless-joint-bolt-set-Tokico-6-pot-front-brake-calipers/161156166914)
Bleed screws: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-brake-caliper-7mm-stainless-bleed-screw-nipple-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Honda/150752961698 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-brake-caliper-7mm-stainless-bleed-screw-nipple-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Honda/150752961698)
Mine's (registered) 2008, so had black wheels. Previous owner got them painted white, so it's not original paint.