A few tips to get most out of your brake discs.
When installing discs clean the mounting surfaces (on hub and disc) meticulously. They have to be perfectly plane which includes being free of any matter.
The bolts have to be fastened to the proper torque using the over-cross technique with gradually higher torque applied (for the front that would be first all with 5 Nm, then 10, 15, 20, at last with 23 Nm)
The pistons need to be moving freely. Dirt, worn seals, and worn pistons need to be addressed.
Caliper pins must be clean, smooth and definitely without pitting so the pad can glide unimpeded. Do not apply things to them like oil, grease, etc. as this will attract dirt in a hurry. (EDIT: copper paste to the thread is good though)
Good for the fork and the discs. After remounting your front wheel, release right front fork tension by pushing straight down on the yoke without applying the bake BEFORE you tighten the two axle pinch bolts on the right fork leg.
Using a run-out Gauge to confirm that the disc runs true. The service limit is 0.30 mm according to the service manual. How much is acceptable for a new disc? On most European cars 0.025 to 0.05 mm run-out is recommended. (EDIT: Manufacturer of your discs is best source for that info. Don't bother if they are Chinese :rofl2: )
Noted and thanks - just fitted new METAL GEAR front rotors yesterday. Runout I will have to check, but I agree that 0.05mm should be OK. Thanks for the tip on the right fork tension, I expect that is due to the 100Nm required to tighten the axle bolt?
BTW: what tool do you use for the axle bolt? Its a 1" (25.4mm) internal hex, requiring an external hex head driver - I made one out of a HD 1" bolt and nut, surely there must be a proper tool to use? Im thinking a 3/4" drive 1" external Hex driver would do the job....
Minimum thickness is 4.5mm as specified on the rotor, the "old" discs were at this limit, but worse they were warped - created an 'undulating surge" feeling when braking to a stop in traffic. Heavy braking was OK, but I decided to replace anyway. Ive also re-set the suspension compression, rebound and preload settings, ensuring both L and R forks are the same. calipers and brake pads are good, copper coat or "Nevaseize" (nickel based lithium grease on the caliper pins is also good).
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 01 February 2018, 02:36 PM
BTW: what tool do you use for the axle bolt? Its a 1" (25.4mm) internal hex, requiring an external hex head driver - I made one out of a HD 1" bolt and nut, surely there must be a proper tool to use? Im thinking a 3/4" drive 1" external Hex driver would do the job....
No, it is not a 1" internal hex! The 14 is a proper metric bike. Proper is to always use METRIC tools :hat: 24 mm hex (Allen, Imbus) key is what you want.
I've got a nut & bolt welded together & use 1 end in the axle & a socket on the other. Cheap as chips & does the job perfect.
Top :onya: if you got a welder.
Nah, I just brought the nut n bolt & took it to the local fabricators. Welded it for nothing for me. Nice guys.
24mm...
nut n bolt welded together, works fine for me.
All Thread rod coupler from the hardware store and a socket or spanner on that...
I use an adaptor similar to this one...
Quote from: froudy on Friday, 02 February 2018, 07:20 AM
I use an adaptor similar to this one...
Now that is posh :whistling:
Quote from: froudy on Friday, 02 February 2018, 07:20 AM
I use an adaptor similar to this one...
That's what I'm using as well. Especially since we're putting 100Nm on it to do up the axle bolt
Im with Black 14, what we call a m16 treble nut makes it 24mm . easy :onya:
Perfect fit.........came with my chainsaw !!
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Thursday, 29 March 2018, 04:02 PM
Perfect fit.........came with my chainsaw !!
I hope it will handle 100 Nm or it will not damage the axle.
True, its not 'Snap On" quality but seems to do the job nicely and it fits with other tools under the seat. I guess I'm a bit naughty as I don't torque things up......... probably more guilty of over tightening I suspect.
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Thursday, 29 March 2018, 04:34 PM
True, its not 'Snap On" quality but seems to do the job nicely and it fits with other tools under the seat. I guess I'm a bit naughty as I don't torque things up......... probably more guilty of over tightening I suspect.
They are not cheap, but its worth investing in one IMO, I've found mine so useful on some many ocassions over the years
i use torque wrench sometimes, not others. after 47 yrs of doing up bolts, think torque/tension is built into me. did up rear axle by feel, i was around 3ft/lbs out. not too bad i thought. i have some socket extensions, each is set at tension /torque. use with rattle gun, impact gun if you must know. 65, 75, 90 &110 ft/lbs. they are spot on. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8PC-1-2-Dr-TORQUE-EXTENSION-BAR-SOCKETS-THIN-WALL/291712685548?hash=item43eb6e55ec:g:IMEAAOxyZw5RZPBo
I'm the same as Grog with ref. using a torque wrench.
I think after years and years of playing with bikes you get a feel for how tight is tight enough. I still however always use one when I refit the 8 cam cover bolts as they are so easily stripped. I also use one for the rear wheel axle nut and that's about it.
Interesting stuff!! I'm planning to have both wheels off this weekend to get new tyres fitted...and had thought that I would clean up the wheel whilst I was at it (as well as service the front calipers change pads etc etc)... had planned to remove the discs so that I could clean in those bits difficult to get to with the discs on. But having read all this I'm now reconsidering taking the discs off. Should be OK as long as I make sure they go back on the same way right? Or anything else I should consider?
@ARH Just make sure everything is clean before refitting the discs. Keep them on the same side they were originally fitted to. Also a dab of threadlock on each disc bolt and all should be ok👍
I wouldn't take the discs off for cleaning as you can get to everything without them off. If you do take them off, you should clean the wheel threads and bolt threads from old thread lock. The discs need to be on when wheels are balanced. Take the existing balance weights off before you bring the wheels to the shop. Check the wheels/tires when you receive them back. My front tire was mounted incorrectly - arrow on tire pointed opposite direction from wheel tire (not the only one to whom this happened).
Cheers Andre, Froudy.
I knew about balancing with the discs on, but didn't think about removing the old weights.... good tip! I'll see immediately if the wheels been rebalanced :onya:
They usually remove the old weights in the shop. But the previous time they left quite a bit on (all the glue and part of the rubber). I might take pics of my wheels next time to have something in case they seriously scratch stuff. Never know but last time they disappointed me threefold.
I hate removing the residue from balancing weights.
I usually soften with white spirit and then use an old, blunt disposable plastic knife. I doesn't damage or mark the rims.
Borrowed a Torque Wrench checked front axle. Tightened by 2 flats before tripping. So was happy old club fist wasnt far off. Pleased it didnt trip before it moved.
Demon tweaks are having a 10% sale on EBC disks this weekend.