Right....
I decided to treat the chain to a clean and lube after Sophie had her wheels stove enameled Red..
I have a horrible feeling something may not be right...
When turning the wheel by hand to clean and lube the chain there seems to be more resistance than there was Pre the new bearings / seals..
Is it normal for new bearings and seals to feel tighter than old ones?
When I first turned the wheel I thought the rear brake was binding a bit..
IF its not normal then what do you reckon is wrong?
I triple checked the exploded diagram of the rear wheel (downloaded off this forum) to make sure the various spacers etc were located in the correct place.... They are !
Am I worrying about nothing?
Thanks in advance,
S.
Don't think that this is normal. As you reported in the other thread, the bearings were put in wrong and the shop reinstalled them. Might be that they damaged the bearing during removal (or installation).
Hi Andre..
Thats what I feared...
This is turning into a right bloody saga !
Incompetence winds me up like nothing else !!!
It is just my "diagnosis" from afar. But the "expert" has already shown his lack of carefulness. And I don't think that a bearing should be reinstalled at all - only virgin bearing should be put in. In your case I would count my losses, get a new bearing, and install it myself. I have no trust in the work of others, based on countless experiences.
Andre...
I have ordered yet another full set of bearings and I shall do as you suggest..
My suspicion is that there is TOO MUCH clearance between the bearings inner race and the spacer..
That means that when the axle nut is tightened the centre part of the bearing is pushed inwards till it meets the spacer.. Thus putting a side load onto the bearing.
Some morons have No mechanical sympathy at all !!
Yup, reinstalling bearings is a good way to ruin them.
I agree with comments above.
Having said that though (and apologies if some of this seems obvious Simon but just to check first)
- how easy does the wheel spin with the chain and caliper off? Still some resistance?
- if you put your 14 on the mainstand, and start the engine, does the rear wheel turn by itself just very slightly? Most 14's do this, if it does then probably it's ok
- is the wheel properly aligned? Don't trust those swing arm marks they can be out. Also sometimes the wheel can go out of alignment on final tightening. On mine I used to measure the gap between the axle blocks and the back of the swing arm with a calipers a few times as I torqued up the rear wheel nut. Also remember that the torque arm rear nut and bolt should be inserted but not torqued up until the wheel nut is torqued up.
Very annoying though, and it never ceases to surprise me that wheel bearings get inserted incorrectly - or indeed in the wrong wheels by "professionals"
Thank you all for your comments.
Dave . .
I am pretty sure that there is way too much resistance, I got used to how it feels when rotating the wheel for chain lubing..
No the wheel does not turn when the bike is ticking over..
In fact I put it in 1st gear and revved up to about 3k rpm then pulled the clutch in..
The wheel came to a holt pretty quickly...
You know, when I took the wheels back I specifically asked if the bearings would be damaged in their being removed and refitted.. I was told "No mate, they will be fine"
Anyone can be a mechanic..
Few can be a DECENT mechanic with old fashioned mechanical sympathy !
Can anyone confirm that I am reading the exploded drawing correctly regarding seals on the back wheel?
To me it looks like there is NOT a seal on the disc side..
The only seal appears to be on the chain side in the sprocket carrier..
I ask this because some sellers of Koyo bearings sell the FULL wheel bearing kits with 4 seals (2 front and 2 rear) and some with 3 seals (2 front and 1 rear)..
Thanks in advance !
Correct. There is NO dust seal on the disc side. The only dust seal on the rear wheel is the one covering the sprocket carrier bearing.
Thanks very much Dave.
Hope you are having a brilliant holiday with our Ozzy cousins.
Must say I am jealous. :)
Absolutely loving Australia - fantastic country. However, 3 weeks in-country and still haven't spotted a 14!
I know a mechanic who fitted fr wheel brgs to 4wd toyota last week. Inner and outer seals slightly diff. Guess who put outer seal inside. Pushed it apart, bearing now stuffed. $130 down the tube. Moral to that is i wont answer about wheel bearings, 46 yrs doing it and still stuffed up.
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Sunday, 12 November 2017, 05:09 AM
Andre...
I have ordered yet another full set of bearings and I shall do as you suggest..
My suspicion is that there is TOO MUCH clearance between the bearings inner race and the spacer..
That means that when the axle nut is tightened the centre part of the bearing is pushed inwards till it meets the spacer.. Thus putting a side load onto the bearing.
I don't think that this is the problem. On the other hand I don't really get what you are saying :confused1:
Maybe you mean that the bearing is not fully (deep enough) seated into its place?
The spacers (PART NO: 64740-42F00 and 64733-35F00) will put only pressure on the outer race of the bearing. There shouldn't be anything pressing against the inner race as it has to be able to turn freely. When the axle nut is tightened, the spacers put pressure on the outer ring (outer race) only. I don't think the spacer on the left side can be installed incorrectly. The right one can. See the pic how it should look.
Hi Andre..
Thanks for posting the photo mate..
The spacer I am talking about is the one that fits between the bearings INSIDE the hub..
I have just removed my rear wheel to check out a hunch..
I asked GSXBarmy if there is just the 1 seal on the rear wheel... He said there is indeed just the one seal in the sprocket carrier.
The kit I bought (KOYO) came with 2 front seals and 2 rear seals..
When I removed the wheel I found that they had fitted a rubber seal on the DISC side under the spacer..
This caused the spacer to crush onto the seal and create a lot of friction!
I removed the seal (which was pretty knackered) and re assembled the bike..
The wheel friction is MUCH less than it was!
The fact still remains though that they have removed and refitted 2 wheel bearings..
For my own piece of mind I shall replace them all as you and others have suggested.
Again, thanks to you all for your help and advice.
Simon
Good that you got that sorted.
I am now suspicious if you got the right bearings in the KOYO kit (as well as the right dust seal). Obvious but anyway, check the numbers on the new bearings against the old (original) ones.
Gentlemen........ I have had exactly this issue myself. When I fitted my bearings, and I only just kissed the bearing seat with them. They were bound up. If you take the wheel out and try to spin the inner race does the inner race on the other bearing spin with it? Im a bit naughty because i just gave the bearing on one side a tiny smack off its seat. Well two smacks really, one 180 degrees to the other. You will feel the bearings free up. The amount of clearance you need is minute.....but its all you need. I did that about 35000k's ago.
Barmy makes a good point about loosening the brake torque arm when adjusting the chain. On my bike i do find when i tighten the axle nut it also tightens the chain. So double check the chain tension before riding.
Hope thats of some help.
no need to loosen torque arm. secret to adjusting chain/ tightening axle. very easy. stick a huge lump of rag between chain and sprocket. google, much easier than me explaining. works perfectly.
They do this on a few kits I've seen in the past - TonyB had same issue last year, one too many dust seals on the rear wheel - one had been fitted on the disc side and was jamming the wheel.
Glad all seems good now Simon, but yes new bearings (again) a good idea.
To prove a point..
This is the exact kit I ordered originally..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GSX1400-K2-K5-02-05-KOYO-FRONT-REAR-WHEEL-BEARINGS-SEALS-COMPLETE/281411329690?hash=item41856c1e9a:g:XIgAAOSwQPlV9Ic3
S.