just two questions gentlemen. what colour gold are calipers. spray can, what do i look for. code or name. second is just advice. going to to paint fork legs, the bottom bits. hammerite black. legs out, mask up all good. whats the best thing to do with bolt holes, axle holes etc. adjusters. all advice appreciated. thanks.
Hi Grog
the gold paint doesn't have a code that I know off - I would just get a can that is as close as possible - you should try to get a coat of clear coat on them as well to as generally rattle can paint seriously doesn't like brake fluid
the bolt holes you can just put a bit of rolled up paper in then to avoid paint getting into the threads but I would still recommend running a tap through them before rebuilding
Del
thanks Del, maybe leave calipers then, just a good scrub up. i thought of grease in bolt /axle holes, good idea or not. adjusters obviuosly must be masked up. only reason for doing forks is carbon fibre wrap getting put on guard, maybe black legs would look better than original silver. not sure.
Grog I've used E-Tech caliper paint in the past successfully, but as Del says there is no colour code per se. Get the closest you can, but do make sure its heat resistant, else it can flake off.
For bolt holes etc, same as Del, I've either used rolled up paper, masked it off using masking tape or put other (longer) bolts in (but not done them up - so they can easily be screwed in or out by hand but don't touch the item being sprayed (so protecting the threads).
problem with using grease, vaseline etc is that its messy and can ruin an otherwise good paint job, so I tend to avoid.
VHT Caliper gold doesn't do a bad job, colour is probably closer to the rear caliper.
Thx Rick, that's very useful. Been thinking of doing my calipers as well, no rush though.
Del & Barmy, do you reckon we'd still need a clearcoat on top of this caliper paint? It's for calipers after all.
@Del @gsxbarmy
Seem to recall from the old org, 'Subaru Gold' was a very good colour match for calipers as well.
Hi Col
If your using specific caliper paint then it'll be an enamel paint so no need for a clearcoat/Lacquer
@KiwiCol
Thx Del.
As per what Del said :onya:
Thanks fellas, youre always helpful. One more dumb question, the flats where bolts tighten onto and the tokico writing, best way to keep paint free. Im guessing masking but looks tedious.
The Tokico bit is easier first - in the past I've sprayed the caliper then used wet and dry (wet - on a sanding block so to keep it flat, or a small flat piece of wood) to cut back to the "Tokico", generally I use a 1000 through 1500 through 2000 grit so as to keep it nice and fine and get nicely "cut" edges.
For the holes where the caliper mounting bolts tighten onto, I've generally just masked those off and trimmed the masking tape with a scalpel around the edge. If you do get a tad of paint underneath, then again a bit of 1500 or 2000 grit wet and dry (wet) generally cuts it back nicely without damaging the face (being a pretty fine grade grit).
There are also faces either side of the pistons to keep clean within the innards of the calipers, I've usually put wide masking tape of that and trimmed around with a scalpel.
Having said all that, Del has probably done this more than I have (as he overhauls calipers more), so may have a better approach.
The key thing when using any masking tape though is to use the stuff that peels off clean for a few days, costs a few pennies more but saves a load of frustration and getting sticky torn bits of paper on the faces.
Sounds good Barmy..... just make sure paint is good and dry befor sanding back Tokico lettering.