For many years the prevailing wisdom was that a semi-synthetic was the way to go. Many owners have since reported using fully synthetic oils with NO issues regarding clutch-slip.
These are oils which have been used, to the owner's satisfaction, in the GSX1400.
Your choice will come down to personal preference and price.
Mineral Oil
Shell Advance AX5 10W-40
(described as a 'premium' mineral oil, this may be semi-synthetic).
Semi-synthetic
Valvoline Durablend 10W-40
Fuchs Silkolene Comp 4 10W-40
Penrite HPR GAS 10 10W-50
Gulf Western SYN-X 3000 10W-40
Halfords 10w-40 4 Stroke Part Motorcycle Part Synthetic Engine Oil
Fully Synthetic
n.b. If using a fully synthetic oil not listed below as tested in the GSX1400, it would be prudent to check the oil is recommended for use in wet-clutch motorcycles.
Penrite Full Synthetic 10W-40
Motul 7100 Synthetic Oil 4T 10W-40
Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40
mineral oil
i wouldn't put in anything modern
a friend of mine used it in his zrx kawasaki and at 40000 mile all the cam lobes were worn away .
he got it free from his work but ended up costing his £2500 to fix it all.
said in other places i use halfords 10w/40
52000 miles on the bike only been in to check valves and it all looks like new.
so I'll just stick with it.
seth
I am with Seth on this one. apart from First couple of times where it was 'profesionally' serviced, I have only ever used Halfords own and never any issues. 67000miles on blue and engine still sounds sweet.
Hey seth do Halfords still do deals on bike oil !!!!
every now and then
i also just ask them to match when the car oil deals are on too.
if i see it I'll post on here
Most mineral base diesel engine oils will work OK in old Suzuki engines.
I used them allmost 200 000km in my old Suzuki GS 1000G with no problems and now I have used them in my 14 over 40 000km.
I have noticed that diesel oils are more "washing" and they will keep engine cleaner than "real"mc oils. Clutch Will allso work fine.
I have changed oils and filters after every 5000km.
Oils ihave used are: Teboil SHPD 15W40 and Mobil Delvac MX 15W40
i wouldn't use a mineral oil in a gsx1400 engine
it's designed to use semi synthetic oil
not the same bike but a friend of mine used mineral oil in a zrx1100 kawazaki and wore his camshafts away costing him just over £2000 to get it all repaired .
I'm also kot sure moneral oil will protect the coatings on the barrels in a 14 either .
Do not just look is the motor oil mineral, semi synthetic or synthetic. It doesnt mean "anything".
Look allso what additives oil has and how much.
Zinc is one of oldest additives against wearing, but modern oils, ment to catalysator engines cant have it enough.
My opinion is that you should have at minimum 1000ppm zink in your oil.
Both of oils I mentioned have zink around 1300ppm, and I had no wearing in my camshafts during 200 000km.
Study allso API and JASO service grades.
my gs1000/1100 did over 100000 miles and like yours the head was like new inside
but i don't think modern moters are made with such good quality materials as i think they now build in a limited lifespan on parts
i did one try full synthetic oil in my old gs but it used it in about 500miles never tried it again
my 14 is in great condition inside with little or no signs of wear so I'll keep doing my
4-5000 oil changes with halfords semi synthetic oil and changing the filter then too .
:cheers:
Just a heads up!!Buster's on Ebay doing Silkoline Super 4. 5 Litre +filter £32.99 and thats' free postage,the same deal for Comp 4 at £34.99 free postage. :onya:
oops will now put this in the Recommended suppliers bit :embarrassed:
Any opinion on Silkolene Pro 4 10W40 (100% sythethic) ?
there has been loads of discussion on oils over the years
the engine was designed to use semi synthetic oil
but its up to you what you use if using fully synthetic oil i think there's a tend to use a bit of oil between oil changes and it costs alot more than semi synthetic oil.
for info in the uk as it don't say where your from
I've used halfords semi synthetic oil (£20-25ish /5ltrs of 10w40) and in over 200000 miles between 5 different gsx1400 with no problems at all changing every 4000 miles also use genuine suzuki oil filters.
Quote from: jeyey on Sunday, 04 June 2017, 01:30 AM
Any opinion on Silkolene Pro 4 10W40 (100% sythethic) ?
In this year I have Silkolene Comp 4 10w40. In my opinion verry good oil. I have comparison with Ipone 10w40 and Motul 5100 Ester 10w40.
Temp of engine in different conditions are verry similar.
On cold, engine sounds best on Silkolene. Also gearbox is working best on Silkolene. Smooth and lightest gear on. In visior of check oil level Silkolene is long time transparent. Longer that Motul And Ipone. This is my personal opinion ;) Bad things ? Silkolene is little more expensive than others.
I use Valvoline Synpower 4T 10W40 oil, It works perfect in my gsx 1400.
Quote from: T 24 on Friday, 17 February 2017, 06:18 AM
Do not just look is the motor oil mineral, semi synthetic or synthetic. It doesnt mean "anything".
Look allso what additives oil has and how much.
Zinc is one of oldest additives against wearing, but modern oils, ment to catalysator engines cant have it enough.
My opinion is that you should have at minimum 1000ppm zink in your oil.
Both of oils I mentioned have zink around 1300ppm, and I had no wearing in my camshafts during 200 000km.
Study allso API and JASO service grades.
Jussi, Interesting to know, you are using mineral oil on your turbo 14. I would never think so. But I see your point.
I'm using Motul 7100 (before used 5100), and I do not have any issue with it. But I have to admit, I do not have such long term test as you do.
Just today, I listen a podcast regarding engine oil testing. One of the points there was - it's impossible to give 100% accurate and objective test result's regarding how oil will behave in engine. For example - did you know what oil viscosity grade is measured at atmospheric pressure (I did not). And where is the atmospheric pressure in the running engine?
As an example in this podcast, there was a experiment, when oil samples were sent to 20 different top US and Japan laboratories, and the they get 20 different results...
My point is, there is no way we will know for sure, what oil will be best for engine and which will be slightly less good.
I search internet and find, what Motul 7100 zinc level is above 1000ppm. It's some test reports for new and used oil. But I don not know, can we trust this measurements or not :)
https://goo.gl/H5vnWG
P.S. during the search, I find https://bobistheoilguy.com/ , to which I plan to pay some attention later. It could be interesting.
I'm running Castrol RX Super in mine after reading a post on the old org, it linked to a thread on Bob the Oil Guys site where Diesel Truck oil outperformed Motol at the end of a 5000km run in the same motorcycle.
just 1 thing to remember in other vehicles oil use
i don't think and car / van / lorry have the same oil going through the gearbox like bikes do.
the oil in those motors mainly gets dirty and lubs surfaces
bike oil gets its long chain molecules shredded by the gear box.
The original Mini had engine & gearbox together, just like a bike. From memory, there wasn't a 'special' oil needed for them, least I never used one anyway.
Just sayin like. . .
This is endless discussion. Everybody is allowed to believe what they want. If super hyper quality and very expensive motorcycle & space ship lubricant feels good, it is OK to me.
Remember the viscosity and service grade (from owners manual). What additives and how much is important. And capability to tolerate impurity = keep engine clean.
And remember to change oils and filters in time. 14 will accept almost every motor oil. It is not a racing engine, it is closer to tractor.
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 16 February 2017, 11:39 PM
i wouldn't use a mineral oil in a gsx1400 engine
it's designed to use semi synthetic oil
Seth
Just wanted to point out, that the manual does not state "semi synthetic"
So is actually designed for mineral use.
I use full synthetic, but just wanted to set the record straight for others (unless I am missing something)
https://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
interesting read
Quote from: Sweaty on Tuesday, 06 June 2017, 07:51 AM
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 16 February 2017, 11:39 PM
i wouldn't use a mineral oil in a gsx1400 engine
it's designed to use semi synthetic oil
Seth
Just wanted to point out, that the manual does not state "semi synthetic"
So is actually designed for mineral use.
I use full synthetic, but just wanted to set the record straight for others (unless I am missing something)
i never checked i was told by my local suzuki deal that the engine was designed to use semi synthetic oil.
a cheap skate friend of mine used mineral oil in his kawazaki zrx1100(got the oil free from his work) and at 40000 miles the cam lobes were worn away (a weak piont on those motors) as mineral oil couldn't protect them cost him £2000 to get it all fixed.
at 50000 miles our 14's still look like new inside .
Snap Seth, my local Suzuki shop said the same to me, "any 10w40 semi will be fine".
For me its not so much about will motor last till 200000k's, I expect its quite possible, I will bin it by then anyhow. Its more about how it feels and I can say things felt a hell of a lot more smoother using fully synthetic rather than semi. Im talking about the gearbox and gear changes more so than the motor. I wouldnt go back. Just my 2c
I have been using Rock Oil Guardian Semi Synth 10W40 in my 14 for so long now I cannot remember how long. Just coming up to 45000 miles and never a problem. 4 litres for around £25 at the moment seems good to me too.
synnex 3000 gulf western, works for me. ive tried lots.
I believe that spending higher sums of money on parts, oils etc can have a psychosomatic effect as you know its in there. I evidence this with a mate who was convinced that his brakes were better after a service by a dealer but after closer examination they had not been touched. He assumed that they had been as they had been stripped and cleaned and had new pads the year before!
BMW have been fooling people for years with their somehow higher perceived quality of the whole bike, causing the owners to go into "Smug Mode" but, evidence does not show it to be the case.
Halfords own 10-40w bike semi seems to work ok. Gives me the smoothest sounding engine of any oil I've tried & these pics are after 108k, seems pretty good to me.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi101.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm66%2FFiskkeeper%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F2017-02%2F20170226_131056_zpssv4jre1w.jpg&hash=8129d65bf34bff98be43733fbba63e498b374fda) (http://s101.photobucket.com/user/Fiskkeeper/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-02/20170226_131056_zpssv4jre1w.jpg.html)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi101.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm66%2FFiskkeeper%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F2017-02%2F20170226_131032_zps36lktacd.jpg&hash=1c4c7f06a30691895864396166e253f1e9ff6d24) (http://s101.photobucket.com/user/Fiskkeeper/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2017-02/20170226_131032_zps36lktacd.jpg.html)
I only had the cam journal off to fit a thread insert to it for the cam cover bolts. Valve clearances are identical to when I first checked them at 15k too.
2 pics = 2000 words.
50k more miles and mine should look the same then :boogie: :hat: :boogie2:
ireckon youre right Seth. know nothing about halfords but seems to work.
Halfords is a national car spares chain, so I've no idea who really makes their oils.
i also have no idea who's oil Halfords actually is but have heard its from a main big oil supplier bottled for them .
I'll try and find out when I'm next in as i know the manager of my local halfords branch.
Given Halfords is owned (or a big part of) Burmah Oil.....?
saw today, gulf western synnex3000 at repco until june 11. 25 bucks for 5 litres. that is a good buy for you aussies.
Quote from: KoZi on Sunday, 04 June 2017, 08:37 PM
Quote from: jeyey on Sunday, 04 June 2017, 01:30 AM
Any opinion on Silkolene Pro 4 10W40 (100% sythethic) ?
In this year I have Silkolene Comp 4 10w40. In my opinion verry good oil. I have comparison with Ipone 10w40 and Motul 5100 Ester 10w40.
Temp of engine in different conditions are verry similar.
On cold, engine sounds best on Silkolene. Also gearbox is working best on Silkolene. Smooth and lightest gear on. In visior of check oil level Silkolene is long time transparent. Longer that Motul And Ipone. This is my personal opinion ;) Bad things ? Silkolene is little more expensive than others.
Have used Silkolene Comp 4 for years now. Switched between that and Castrol Power 1, but in the end, I firmly believe the Silkolene is better. Just seemed to heat up much quicker with a cold engine and the gear shifts are like silk.
Would climate make any difference to peoples choices of oil?
For Example - The Tropics.
cairns a bit warmer than here for sure. mate lives at port douglas. just uses recod. oil in his and he flogs them. just choose your preferred and go with whats said to use. oil choice is a huge can of worms, everyone has a fave. not worth talking about. i use ryco rmz102 filter and synnex 3000 gulf western. around $45 for a change. repco have both. works fine for me. 4litre of silkolene will cost 75 plus a top up bottle to fill. gearchange is better with synnex than silko. yes, ive tried both.
I use Gulf Western Synnex 3000 as recommended by Grog. I change between 4-5 thousand kms. Comes out very clean, good gear changes. Well happy.
Same Gulf western fantastic and cheap
Anyone here with experience/opinions about Mannol 10W-40 semi-synthetic?
mannol gets good reviews. german so should be good. in australia prob. not available just same as no gulf western in europe. if its approved, go with it.
Not sure what you mean by approved. It is 10W-40, API SL, and JASO MA2. Should be ok then as API SL is a newer standard than SF or SG (as in owners manual) and should include the requirements of the older standards.
Can get it from amazon for 48€/20L. They have a contract for their customers to drop off the old oil at a nation wide car repair chain. That is an issue here as otherwise I have to return the old oil to the place where I got the new from. That costs money for freight and has to be declared as "dangerous substance". Welcome to the goodness of Germany :rofl2:
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Saturday, 19 August 2017, 06:10 AM
I use Gulf Western Synnex 3000 as recommended by Grog. I change between 4-5 thousand kms. Comes out very clean, good gear changes. Well happy.
My local Supercheap has GW10W40 Syn-X 3000 (semi synthetic) 5L for A$33 or the Syn X 5000 (full synthetic) 5L for A$49.
Both the Syn-X 3000 and 5000 are API SN/CF rated, the Syn-X 5000 is in addition ACEA A3/B4.
I will go the Syn-X 5000 unless there is a valid reason not to.
Fully agree, oils can be a 'slippery subject' (pun intended) :grin:
Hi Eric. Still using it :onya:
@Andre,
I have used Mannol oils in my sons Volvo V 70 diesel automatic. Both 10w40 and ATF.
Changed three times now. No problems yet. Seems to be ok cheap oil.
Eric. not sure on oil. synnex 3000 works well. amazing how good gear change and clutch action is. 5000 has higher specs. fully synthetic. A3 is for extended oil change intervals. B4 is for direct injection diesels. any advantage, dont know. youll wear out before 14 motor does. ill just keep using 3000.
Well ive not done the oil on my 14 yet as ive not had it long enough yet and it was fully serviced when i bought it , But i generally tend to stick with manufacturers guid lines when it comes to oil and fluids .
As there would of been plenty of vigorous testing by the manufacturers to find the best compramizes possible for there engines and equipment , but i always like a good deal too if i can find a like for like version cheaper !
I think the oil and tyre arguments will go on for ever its a very personal thing choosing these products ... thats why i just tend to go with the manual . :)
Comma semi synth 10W-40 car oil in mine.
Gear changes MUCH better that when I used the officially endorsed Motul semi synth.
Will use Halfords next time round just to try it..
Seriously I could tell within 100 yards my engine was smoother and the gear change far easier than when Motul was inside.
Within reason I dont think it matters with regular oil / filter changes..
^^^ good point, the most important thing is regular changes.
Quote from: grog on Friday, 09 February 2018, 07:19 PM
Eric. not sure on oil. synnex 3000 works well. amazing how good gear change and clutch action is. ... ill just keep using 3000.
I started using this due to grog's recommendation, and the good price. I'm happy with it.
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Friday, 09 February 2018, 10:03 PM
Comma semi synth 10W-40 car oil in mine.
Gear changes MUCH better that when I used the officially endorsed Motul semi synth.
Will use Halfords next time round just to try it..
Seriously I could tell within 100 yards my engine was smoother and the gear change far easier than when Motul was inside.
Within reason I dont think it matters with regular oil / filter changes..
Comma oil is cleaned/recycled car oil .
Ok to use in older cars but bikes use there oil in the gearbox so not so good for us to use.
:cheers:
Quote from: VladTepes on Wednesday, 14 February 2018, 02:54 PM
Quote from: grog on Friday, 09 February 2018, 07:19 PM
Eric. not sure on oil. synnex 3000 works well. amazing how good gear change and clutch action is. ... ill just keep using 3000.
I started using this due to grog's recommendation, and the good price. I'm happy with it.
Big nod to Grog, cheers for the good advice.
Was O/s for most of last month. Finally got around to changing the oil in the '14 the other day. Put in 5l of Gulf Western Syn3000. Has made a big difference, much smoother gear changes and seems to rev a lot smoother. I will sick with this oil from now on.
I also cleaned the chain and sprockets, cleaned with Kero and lubed the chain with WD40. Have now also bought the Castro's VMX80 gear oil to lube the chain next time. Next on the list is stainless brake and clutch lines, LED head and indicators....oh and new tyres too....
Thanks Eric. Synnex sure does make gear change smoother.
Synnex 3000 is going in on my next change. Worth a crack. I've got some Penrite in there at the moment, gear changes are 'clunky' & harsh.
Out of interest Col, are you using semi or full synthetic ?
Can't be sure, but I think it might be full syn. I buy a heap at once, (6 x 6L packs) when it's on special, as everything I've got uses 10/40. Most of it was semi, but thinking back, I reckon I got a 5/40 full syn as well, as they'd run out of 10/40 semi in the 6L pack.
Probably need some 20/50 (or 30/40) in after, just to clear the thin stuff out, then bung in the Synnex 3000 & see how that goes. Checked the price here today, $45 for 5L, so it's a good price.
I use Halfords Semi.
Best thing is it comes in 5L bottles!
Halfords is a UK brand, we don't get it down under. The GW Synnex is going to be my next one.
Sure is Halfords in the UK is a car parts and bicycle shop .
They have there own brand stuff including oil (it's made by a top oil supplier then branded for them).
They do tools and other consumables and radio/entertainment/sat nav systems.
Batteries ect
Camping stuff( tho not that great quality)
But only in the UK
:cheers:
Just had a big look thru Halfords online catalogue. Sure have lots of stuff. 1st time ive looked. Strange how some stuff is way cheaper than here but other isa lot dearer. 2 ton floor jack, 50 pounds, priced similar last week, double that. Looks like our Repco type of shop but a bigger range.
Switched to the Synnex, $15 for 5l on spesh at repco a few weeks ago, I'll use it in all my bikes from now on so thanks for the tip.. :)
1400oz, yeah its good oil, good price. have tried many brands but it gives best gearchange.
The last couple of years i used Motul 5100 Technosynthese, this year i changed to Castrol Power RS RC 5w/40 and was pleasantly surprised. Engine seems tou run more smooth than with the Motul, gearshifting improved also.
Mate, Oil &Tyres, maybe the two biggest can of worms, everyone has a favourite and a reason why. Chains, Chain Lube maybe the next in line worm can.
Always used Castrol power 10/40 semi synthetic.. gear changes lovely and smooth...
Now tyres and chain lube..there's a story in itself :stir:
Most definately another story. More episodes than Dr Who.
I currently use the synnex 3000 but bike service place uses IPONE (they buy in bulk).
I'm happy to try it unless anyone has cautionary tales / bad experiences with it ?
Be interesting to get a comparison after using the syn-x3000. Be keen to hear what you think of another oil.
Vlad, you have the best in it, $20 for 5 litres. IPONE will cost around $100. French oil but its made in Malaysia. No brainer from me. Gulf Western understands Aussie conditions, does a French oil made in Malaysia? Motorcycle Dedicated they say, just a few words to charge more. I know my choice.
$20.......im getting ripped off its $35 here.
I like it though. :onya:
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 31 October 2018, 07:24 PM
Vlad, you have the best in it, $20 for 5 litres. IPONE will cost around $100
Funny you should say that - I just got it serviced and the shop uses ipone. (the price differential wasn't near that, as they buy in bulk) and... it's fine but does ride any better than the cheaper oil.
If anything, it's harder to find neutral but I suspect that's a coincidence. Perhaps. :)
West way eBay, 10/40w £18 delivered . Does job well and no issues ! U.K. Oil , halfords is comma brand, and made my slabside clutch slip. Binned it off never used it since.
@Fula28 nice first post.
I've done over 100000 miles on different gsx1400's using halfords oil with no I'll effects ( ( i was told a long while ago that Halfords oil is silkoene oil in there branded bottles) but that's just my experience.
Nice heads up on the cheaper oil as Halfords oil for motorbikes is now up to £32 for 5 litres
:cheers:
14 is not so exacting for oils. Almost every oil will work if it works with the clutch.
Quote from: seth on Monday, 24 June 2019, 08:21 AM
@Fula28 nice first post.
I've done over 100000 miles on different gsx1400's using halfords oil with no I'll effects ( ( i was told a long while ago that Halfords oil is silkoene oil in there branded bottles) but that's just my experience.
Nice heads up on the cheaper oil as Halfords oil for motorbikes is now up to £32 for 5 litres
:cheers:
Halfords oil is deffo Comma.
What is Comma?
Quote from: grog on Monday, 24 June 2019, 07:35 PM
What is Comma?
After a full stop ! ! It's a brand selling automotive products :)
Quote from: grog on Monday, 24 June 2019, 07:35 PM
What is Comma?
An oil company.
https://uk.commaoil.com/
Thanks blokes. Guess i couldve Googled but thought it was another UK word i didnt understand.
As said before our engines need a regular good quality/high spec semi-synthetic oil chanced at 4000 miles .
That's mainly due to the ceramic coating on the barrels .
They could probably go double that between services if they had metal liners in the barrels .
Due to this the oil is well within it's working life when it's changed and why I don't bother with very expensive branded oils and never fully synthetic as our motors weren't designed to use it .
Finally I think the picture shows what people think about oil .
Each to thier own but as long as it's not rubbish and is changed regularly your motor will be ok .
Thanks :cheers:
Speedy might be using some Banana flavoured 15/40 super lube. :stir:
If I remember correctly the last time I serviced Sophie (Ahem) I used Halfords semi synthetic oil, but cant remember...
Shes now done 38,670 miles..Will "Do" her again when she hits 40k
P.S I wish I hadn't mentioned chain lube..
P.S I wish I hadn't mentioned chain lube..
Banana flavored, at that! :happy1:
Speedy, you get Sophie back & now all you can talk about is Banana Lube, Will "Do" her again etc etc :happy1: You need to calm down mate :rofl2:
The Banana lube is probably for the exhaust, remember he widened it . . . :whistling: :lol:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Wednesday, 26 June 2019, 03:38 PM
The Banana lube is probably for the exhaust, remember he widened it . . . :whistling: :lol:
Now where did I put the "Reduction kit" for the exhaust !!
:embarassed:
Is Bob a bit bigger than you Si?
Quote from: grog on Friday, 18 August 2017, 07:30 PM
...i use ryco rmz102 filter and synnex 3000 gulf western. around $45 for a change. repco have both...
Just followed this advice thanks Groggo. Changing oil and filter this weekend (after 500km on the Castrol Power 1 4T). Should be nice and clean now after sitting for 5 years. Also doing a brake and clutch flush and they had a 25% off all tools sale so...bought some cool unnecessary tools too. 2 different hammers (dead blow and two headed rubber/plastic - is it possible to have too many types of hammers?) and a new set of...well you get the picture.
Are they metric or imperial hammers?
UNF
All my hammers are centre handed helix style.
I've been advised to run fully synthetic 5w50 in the turbo 14 ,part to do with facet scavenge pump .
Bought supermoly 5w50 atv,not cheap so we will see how it goes.
It's rated for wet clutches also.
:cheers:
Good luck with the stem seals, they seem to fail on 14s run on fully synth. Takes a while mind so unless you ride the turbot like a normal bike you might never have an issue.
Hi Hooli
Head was gas flowed ,seats recut ,new stem seals and reprofiled cams at 12500 miles now on 14500.
Where I am it's just going to be ridden like a power cruiser ,it's a straightliner really .
I just like the fact its has crazy if you want.
Turbo build by Mjrevtech ,build pics on their fb.
Cheers for reply bro.
I am of the opinion that on this motorcycle the price of oil should not be looked at twice nor the fact that at only 6500rpm it has already given almost everything,
I prefer an oil that at any time I have the security of being leftover without considering if I am wasting part of the money on it.
100% synthetic redline - amsoil - ravenol and in this order attending to a base oil with a higher % of ester and the rest PAO base and in any case with a splendid package of additives
I think.
Oh Dear....
Now you've done it..
You've opened the oil debate can of worms ! :whistling:
Wow, I wasn't aware that I was opening Pandora's box. :stir:
Uh-oh, he's gone and done it, next thing he'll be talking about which tyres are best...
Or Brake Pads??
... or hammers.... :grin:
(https://i.ibb.co/R40HTh3/9442-D26-D-A7-CA-4-AC9-8-C25-B16099-CE4-B13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XksJxy7)
... and considering I neither like or use adjustable spanners I'm not sure why I have these either... :happy1:
(https://i.ibb.co/S0QkKYW/2797-F2-F9-0-F8-D-4-CC9-BE92-A48-B171-C22-F6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xpynz0N)
A good collection Tony, you have more hammers than me, shifters, a few less but i out trump you, have a huge one, its either 24 or 36 inch, cant remember. Totally useless, no idea where i got it.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Sunday, 21 May 2023, 03:14 PM... or hammers.... :grin:
(https://i.ibb.co/R40HTh3/9442-D26-D-A7-CA-4-AC9-8-C25-B16099-CE4-B13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XksJxy7)
I think 7th from the left is imperial so can't be used on Jap bikes.
Hooli, just multiply 19mm by 3/4, a bloody good hammer. Light use only. Good for adjusting that stps😂
Just a note guys, member Burudi (who started this thread again) has gone, so carry on with this thread if you like, but it really doesn't need any further comment.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 21 May 2023, 06:27 PMQuote from: Tony Nitrous on Sunday, 21 May 2023, 03:14 PM... or hammers.... :grin:
(https://i.ibb.co/R40HTh3/9442-D26-D-A7-CA-4-AC9-8-C25-B16099-CE4-B13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XksJxy7)
I think 7th from the left is imperial so can't be used on Jap bikes.
Yeah, stuff like nitrous kit fitting and my Fergie tractor aren't metric so I'll use it on them. Glad you pointed it out.
(I actually have a LOT of AF / Whitworth sockets and spanners, although I probably use less than half a dozen of them)
looking for ester or PAO base and splendid additive packages I suggest redline and amsoil
6 claw hammers, now that's excessive.
I spend on oil with great joy. For me it is an investment and not an expense.
excessive quality in base oil and additive package...I am delighted to accept it
Quote from: barbastro on Saturday, 16 November 2024, 12:34 AMI spend on oil with great joy. For me it is an investment and not an expense.
excessive quality in base oil and additive package...I am delighted to accept it
The oil changes on these bikes are so frequent (4000 miles) any good quality 10w40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil is good as its only ½ used by then.
Folk that spend a fortune (although totally thier choice) are wasting money that could be much better spent on tyres and petrol 🫣
Quote from: barbastro on Saturday, 16 November 2024, 12:34 AMI spend on oil with great joy. For me it is an investment and not an expense.
excessive quality in base oil and additive package...I am delighted to accept it
This sounds like a thread for "SUPER ANDRE!" lol :happy1:
@Andre
I am certain that I have left a drop or two here or somewhere else in the forum. :coffeescreen:
My oil - my choice. As long as no one puts their chosen whatever-juice into my engine, all is well. :cheers:
Quote from: KoZi on Sunday, 04 June 2017, 08:37 PMQuote from: jeyey on Sunday, 04 June 2017, 01:30 AMAny opinion on Silkolene Pro 4 10W40 (100% sythethic) ?
In this year I have Silkolene Comp 4 10w40. In my opinion verry good oil. I have comparison with Ipone 10w40 and Motul 5100 Ester 10w40.
Motul with only 5% ester deceives the buyer with a false expectation.
With a translator, go to
La taberna del motor (Spanish website) on YouTube and observe the analysis criteria and results offered regarding the world of lubricant.
Im sure a lot of org members will get into an oil discussion🤷Next is tyres, brake pads,chain, its a long list of which is best. Total waste of time, all personal preference. Keep at it but head butting a brick.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 17 November 2024, 05:56 PMTotal waste of time, all personal preference.
So true :onya:
Quote from: barbastro on Saturday, 16 November 2024, 09:10 PMMotul with only 5% ester deceives the buyer with a false expectation.
Assuming that anyone selling anything is lying (intentionally or not), is a good first step when considering to buy a product.
It is said that in former East-Germany, sales people in government controlled stores had a different approach: They first listed all the NEGATIVE points of the product. Likely to be a myth because as it is to good to be true!
To rate engine oil is difficult. I'd say it is nearly impossible in practice.
To say "This oil is great because gears are quiet now" is hogwash. Most likely reason for quiet gears is the liberal use of VI-improvers. That imo is a big negative point.
First and formost I want a good base oil! This reduces the "need" for additives substantially.
Additives as little as needed.
Ester is not something I want to find in an oil. Bad for the seals. Manufacturers know this and answer that they added more additives :furious: to counter these ill effects.
They only put 5% ester in the oil because they know that when they put more in, the amount of additives to counter-act the negative properties of ester will go throught he roof.
Why do they even add ester? Imo it's a request of their marketing department.
Back to Grog's point of "personal preference".
Some want cheap, others want excellent, others want something in the middle. No worry, the manufacturers and their marketing departments got you covered. You want ester, we got it. You want quiet gears, we got it. Anything else you want? We got it. Do we care about your engine? NOPE!!! You stupid customer will never know that we sold you a product that is not in your best interest. You don't even know what your best interest is. We do know what is our best interest: $$$$$
Because this is a thread that keeps on giving......
Grog are you still using the Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 now they have made it a full synthetic ?
I am on my second oil change using it.
Col, just the advertising has changed not the oil.I actually rang them months ago, they advertise as full synthetic now, i dont understand butwas assured exact same oil.Works for me, never had a problem. Both cars & bike use it 👍
Syn-3000 works for me
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Monday, 18 November 2024, 05:28 PMBecause this is a thread that keeps on giving......
Grog are you still using the Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 now they have made it a full synthetic ?
I am on my second oil change using it.
Soooo....I give you some more :smile2:
This fits perfectly to what I said in my above post regarding marketing :coffeescreen:
Screenshot from 2024-11-18 09-11-07.png
They would not be able to claim this to be a fully synthetic oil up and over here in Germany. I believe Germany is the only country that protects consumers against this specific false claim.
"Severely hydrocracked oils" are not full synthetic oils. They belong to group III base oils. Manufacturers like to market them as synthetic because of their extensive processing. True synthetic oils are in group IV (example: PAO) and group V (example:Ester)
I don't know of all the changes (if any) in above oil. The one change for sure is the marketing approach!
Sure this doesn't make it a "bad" oil. BUT the claim is FALSE and DECEPTIVE!
Quote from: grog on Monday, 18 November 2024, 06:21 PMCol, just the advertising has changed not the oil.I actually rang them months ago, they advertise as full synthetic now, i dont understand butwas assured exact same oil.Works for me, never had a problem. Both cars & bike use it 👍
Yes I do recall you saying that. I'm well happy with it. Can't understand why they would confuse users of the product by doing that if nothing had changed.
Side issue, went to buy a Hi-Flo filter, agent didn't have one, had a genuine Suzuki filter.....nearly ten dollars cheaper !!
Like this stuff?? :imrgreen:
GW3000.jpg
I buy it in bulk when I'm over the hill, it's not available here.
That reminds me, I must check if Halfords have their own back in stock yet. I've used my supply up at the weekend.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 19 November 2024, 07:37 AMThat reminds me, I must check if Halfords have their own back in stock yet. I've used my supply up at the weekend.
My local Halfords had two 5L cans on the shelf yesterday. Not sure if it's gone up a bit in price I think it was £33 or £34, just caught a quick glimpse as I was in a bit of a rush to get to the till a minute or two before closing time
Quote from: Will14 on Tuesday, 19 November 2024, 07:58 AMQuote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 19 November 2024, 07:37 AMThat reminds me, I must check if Halfords have their own back in stock yet. I've used my supply up at the weekend.
My local Halfords had two 5L cans on the shelf yesterday. Not sure if it's gone up a bit in price I think it was £33 or £34, just caught a quick glimpse as I was in a bit of a rush to get to the till a minute or two before closing time
Excellent, cheers.
Not sure but with 180k miles on yours Hooli, im thinking your Halfords choice is a suitable oil👏👍
I did exactly what Andre says not to do when I picked it to keep using Grog. Tried several & picked the one with the smoothest gearbox & least engine noise. Works for me & still doesn't burn a drop either so obviously works.
No idea who makes it now, used to be Comma I think. But the lack of supply recently was apparently down to them changing suppliers. Hope the specs have stayed the same. Guess I'll find out on the next oil change.
Basically it works, thats all you need
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 19 November 2024, 07:05 PMI did exactly what Andre says not to do
I am sure I said somewhere else to not do something. Certainly not here!
Quote from: Andre on Sunday, 17 November 2024, 08:19 PMTo say "This oil is great because gears are quiet now" is hogwash. Most likely reason for quiet gears is the liberal use of VI-improvers. That imo is a big negative point.
Just as much as one can't say that the oil is great because of its "quiet-factor", one can't say that it is a bad oil. All it says is the most likely reason for this is that the producer of that oil dumped a bunch of VI-improvers into the cocktail. It doesn't say anything about the base oil and other additives used.
Quote from: Andre on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 01:50 AMQuote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 19 November 2024, 07:05 PMI did exactly what Andre says not to do
I am sure I said somewhere else to not do something. Certainly not here!
Quote from: Andre on Sunday, 17 November 2024, 08:19 PMTo say "This oil is great because gears are quiet now" is hogwash. Most likely reason for quiet gears is the liberal use of VI-improvers. That imo is a big negative point.
Just as much as one can't say that the oil is great because of its "quiet-factor", one can't say that it is a bad oil. All it says is the most likely reason for this is that the producer of that oil dumped a bunch of VI-improvers into the cocktail. It doesn't say anything about the base oil and other additives used.
I'm not disagreeing but at 180K miles whatever is in the cocktail can't be doing to many negatives to the engine
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-15w40-n2-5l-215179.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=mtwlxwpar&istBid=t&&_$ja=tsid:%7Ccid:17372421495%7Cagid:%7Ctid:%7Ccrid:%7Cnw:x%7Crnd:5139342363136996557%7Cdvc:c%7Cadp:%7Cmt:%7Cloc:9192986&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI99PeqJSCiQMVcZRQBh2FrzezEAQYDCABEgIk9PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Quote from: Will14 on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 05:28 AMI'm not disagreeing but at 180K miles whatever is in the cocktail can't be doing to many negatives to the engine
Obviously :)
I don't think my neighbor ever bothered to think about the oil he put into his Corolla. Sold it for 200 US $ after driving 550k miles (one engine, no rebuild, and an engine fire). I never bothered much with oil change intervals and level-checking (had a couple times were level could not be detected :rolleyes: ) either on my Corolla when I left it with 180k miles behind. Still ran great.
Obviously engines can run for a long time without much thought of what you put in them. Even engines who never saw an oil change, level check, or top-off last 80k miles. Incredible! Whatever works for the owner is fine with me.
Doesn't change a thing about oil quality. If you don't give a shite about tribology then that's ok. Just leave those who are interested go about their business.
Over-and-out
Each to their own Andre 👍Bloody Corollas, door lock broke yesterday, only 25 yrs old.Think its payback, i thought of selling it,i wont, that would be like selling my 14.
Have found over the years of owning a couple of Corolla's that there's a light on the dash that tells you when to open the bonnet :facepalm:
Yeah, bloody Corollas. Could handle a lot of abuse. So could the Golf II I bought for 850€. Gifted it to my sister in 2007. That was my last tin can. No need or want for a car since then.
No need for a bike either. But a lot of want for my 14. Probably my very last one. First motor vehicle I take (meticulous) care of. :smitten:
Just noticed that the title of this thread is "Suitable Engine Oils". I got an ultra-secret-hot-tip for you (not for me).
Screenshot from 2024-11-20 08-20-30.png
Never seen that light Col, amazing little car. 203 th ks, apart from maintenance items,cv joints, alternator brushes, lhf wheel bearing, O2 sensor.Every thing else still original.
A light to open the bonnet eh?
That's nothing, my Jag seems to have a light to open my bank account.
Quote from: Hooli on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 10:10 PMA light to open the bonnet eh?
That's nothing, my Jag seems to have a light to open my bank account.
JLR seem to have direct access to my account, they don't even bother with a light anymore.
Quote from: Andre on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 05:24 PMYeah, bloody Corollas. Could handle a lot of abuse. So could the Golf II I bought for 850€. Gifted it to my sister in 2007. That was my last tin can. No need or want for a car since then.
No need for a bike either. But a lot of want for my 14. Probably my very last one. First motor vehicle I take (meticulous) care of. :smitten:
Just noticed that the title of this thread is "Suitable Engine Oils". I got an ultra-secret-hot-tip for you (not for me).
Screenshot from 2024-11-20 08-20-30.png
A Scotsman i used to work for drove an AU Ford wagon, and his wife a little hatchback thing (also Ford i think). He'd drain the old oil from her car and put it in his, topping off with a bit of new, and new oil in the wife's car. New filters in both.His logic was that she didn't do the miles whereas he did, so there was life left in the little hatchbacks oil. Seemed to work for him, never heard of an engine issue in the 10 years I worked with him.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 11:38 PMQuote from: Hooli on Wednesday, 20 November 2024, 10:10 PMA light to open the bonnet eh?
That's nothing, my Jag seems to have a light to open my bank account.
JLR seem to have direct access to my account, they don't even bother with a light anymore.
You mean your light has broke? how unusual, an electrical fault on a JLR product.