Hi I just seen a video on YouTube showing a person who removed pairs system and I was wondering if it's worth it.
The main reasons are it stops the horrible popping and banging on the over run when you have a decent pipe / full system.
It also gives a more accurate A/F reading on the dyno.
Other little benefits are a tiny bit less weight and its easier to work on the bike.
(https://s13.postimg.org/exnosyht3/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/h281u1jfn/)
Is there a template for covers anywhere
Quote from: Reece on Sunday, 16 July 2017, 08:08 PM
Is there a template for covers anywhere
Look in Downloads / Manuals: http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=58
and the link for removing the PAIRS system
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=41
I bought these on Ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Valve-Eliminator-SMOG-block-off-plates-Suzuki-GSX-1400-all-models-/252446960189?hash=item3ac702ea3d
:smile2:
Quote from: Notty on Monday, 17 July 2017, 01:59 AM
I bought these on Ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Valve-Eliminator-SMOG-block-off-plates-Suzuki-GSX-1400-all-models-/252446960189?hash=item3ac702ea3d
:smile2:
i fitted same kit to 2 of the 14's easy and straightforward.
good quality and definitely easier than making them.
:cheers:
Although with those kits arguably you still need to make the blanking inserts to replace the reed valves, those are only the covers.
Same as these (which I fitted to mine) - only the covers - but do look good!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR1300-Radical-kit-car-hayabusa-Billet-Pair-valve-covers-08-to-2014-/252012166113?epid=884315648&hash=item3aad187be1:g:y8QAAMXQC-tTAk1d
To add to my earlier comment....
My 14 has been done and I'd do it again.
Full system, PC111 and dyno time.
Neither my current Busa or King have been done.
Both only run end cans and stock ECU maps.
To me it depends on the mods.
To me the main benefit was how much smoother mine ran with the PAIRS removed.
If you don't want to put plates on Reece, easiest way to blank the PAIRS off is to take the hose off the cover on the cylinder head and screw a suitably sized short allen screw into the bore of the cover before replacing the hose. SO if ever you want to put it back to standard, you just take the screw out. Simple, cheap and effective. In fact worth doing before you shell out for parts to find out if you like it with the PAIRS removed or not.
You could of course just clamp the air hose shut, depends if you have 2 small clamps to do it with just to try it out.
@Tony Nitrous Was just going to respond to your earlier comment "when you have a decent pipe / full system". I did the poor man's PAIR deactivation and reactivated it as I could not tell a difference. My system is original. Instead I opted to clean the crud out of the PAIR.
Quote from: Andre on Monday, 17 July 2017, 08:10 AM
@Tony Nitrous Was just going to respond to your earlier comment "when you have a decent pipe / full system". I did the poor man's PAIR deactivation and reactivated it as I could not tell a difference. My system is original. Instead I opted to clean the crud out of the PAIR.
To me the main advantage of doing it is to stop the spitting and farting on the over run with a full system and to get a true A/F when remapping for a full system.
As I said, that's why I'm not bothered about doing it on my bikes that only have aftermarket end cans as remapping and poor fuelling on the over run isn't an issue.
I think I will be doing maybe this weekend I did see somewhere not sure if on here or another site a picture to copy of plate.
Do I totally remove hoses and attachments and do I need to do anything else after blocking it off.
Thanks everyone on replying to my question.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Valve-Eliminator-SMOG-block-off-plates-Suzuki-GSX-1400-all-models-/252446960189?hash=item3ac702ea3d
has all you need
as you'll need to seal the airbox and 1 throttle body vacuum.
some instant gastket .
i just removed the read valves and the added gasket sealer under the cover in the kit .
Quote from: Reece on Monday, 17 July 2017, 06:38 PM
I think I will be doing maybe this weekend I did see somewhere not sure if on here or another site a picture to copy of plate.
Do I totally remove hoses and attachments and do I need to do anything else after blocking it off.
Thanks everyone on replying to my question.
You can download "How To" sheets to answer both your questions
Template: http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=58
Removing the PAIRS system http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=41
you can remove all the bits or just block off intake to pairs. same result. removing stuff is to clean up and remove unwanted crap. bit less weight, cleaner look. i blocked mine off around 4 yrs back, no doubt in my mind as to which is better, that is pairs working or not working. smoother, no popping, etc, just on over run i mean. just my opinion.
I had some time and want to do something useful :)
There is DVG file, which can be used for CNC machine. Made it by dimensioonis of this template: http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=58
:cheers:
Done mine on the cheap £1.50
Is that just capped and with what
Yeah, if you can get away with just a cap, that'd be handy.
What sort of cap and what holds it there?
To me it looks like an Allen screw.
Its a stainless steel cap had bolt. M10. You will need a tap to cut a thread and a grinder with a cutting disc to shorted the bolt and some loctite to seal the bolt. Simples :-)
Cheers for that Veemanzero
All this is already in the write-up for removing PAIRS....
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=310.0
I use chair leg covers, they seems work well too :)
great way to remove pairs without using the plates
only thing i would add is you still need to remove the reed valves as they can snap off and fall into the head/valves due to no through flow of gases as in normal use of the reed valves.
:cheers:
@seth ,Thanks for your reminding !
Yes I have read that at the topic "How to: Remove the PAIRS System". But I am courious what will happen if not put back the reed valve (middle part) and just put back the top cover ? Will the gas from the two "compartment" disturb each other or what will be the effect ?
Quote from: seth on Monday, 21 August 2017, 10:24 PM
great way to remove pairs without using the plates
only thing i would add is you still need to remove the reed valves as they can snap off and fall into the head/valves due to no through flow of gases as in normal use of the reed valves.
:cheers:
Seth - i've left mine in situ. Due to the fact I do not have the blanking plates. Has any one heard of them dropping?
i left the block in just removed the 4 reed valve pettals (2 per reed block)
i remember a few had cracked or dropped pettals on the old org long ago nothing recently tho.
:cheers:
For kicks, I had disabled the PAIR system temporarily. No difference. Not surprising, as I think it was
@Tony Nitrous who said that it doesn't make sense on an original system.
I blocked my pairs just like Veemanzero, with threads and screw. I didnt notice any difference. The reason for blocking was that I wanted to get accurate AFR readings from my wide band lambda.
After fitting a turbo to my bike, I made a new "pair" connection to feed air to downpipe after lambdasond. And it works.
Emission meters of MOT inspection will show total "bullshit" for extra air! But they cant do anything because it is original emission equipment!
So, pair is very useful system. I like it.