firstly apologies if this has been covered elsewhere: I can't find it, if it is.........
Anyway - I've got a k3 with hagon nitros and hagon progressives up front.40mm jack up kit with yokes dropped 10mm. Renthals (don't know specifically number)to round things off. Old girl handled herself pretty well last month through the Pyrenees with a gang on r1's, 1190 superduke, multistrada, etc. Unfortunately I found my engine casing protectors were touching down before my pegs which is not a nice feeling......
Anyway I've tried to check my static sag and found the following:
- bike weight alone = 30mm sag
- total sag with me on board = 45mm sag together
This seems excessive - what should the total sag be?
I'm keen to get the front end raised back up to give me more ground clearance but I really like the way the bike drops into corners so I'm trying to go back to basics to see if I can get the steering and the clearance.
SAG sounds about right in all honesty. What you could do though is take off the jack up kit, fit a 50 section rear tyre, and put the forks back to their normal height that would give you better ground clearance whilst still giving you a faster turn in
Hmmmm, I've got a 50 section tyre. Wouldn't raising the yokes and taking off the jack up kit level the bike out and blunt the steering?
It would but sometimes you can take things too far.
Definitely put the front back to stock height.
Jack up blocks at the rear are a matter of perference - some like em, many don't.
A lot of people seem to prefer just a 55 rear tyre (with everything else stock height) to improve tip-in sufficiently without adversely affecting stability.
As you currently have a 50 rear you cant try that just yet, but start by raising the front and see how that feels.
The changes at the front will be the main thing contributing to the engine cases touching...
Quote from: mrr1 on Thursday, 22 June 2017, 08:03 AM
Hmmmm, I've got a 50 section tyre. Wouldn't raising the yokes and taking off the jack up kit level the bike out and blunt the steering?
Yes it would - I meant a 55 profile tyre (teach me to type when tired lol) as Vladtepes has said.
Time for a cuppa & biscuit granddad, then you can have an afternoon nap. :cheers:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 22 June 2017, 06:02 PM
Time for a cuppa & biscuit granddad, then you can have an afternoon nap. :cheers:
Zzzzzz Zzzzzzz Zzzzzzz :rofl2:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 22 June 2017, 06:02 PM
Time for a cuppa & biscuit granddad, then you can have an afternoon nap. :cheers:
Nothing to do and all day to do it.........that grass grows soooo slowly.
He's starting to wind the clock down......quickly, send him back to work :stir:
Static Sag.......is that why women have to wear a bra ??
I like to set static sag at 25mm with load. It's enough to avoid topping out suspension and leaves you in the sweet spot of Spring compression.
This is exactly (well, don't know if it is 25mm) what the suspension specialist just did to my shocks during overhaul. They now sit on first ring for solo ride. The inside pressures were adjusted for my body weight. He told me that I should notice more agility. Have not mounted them yet as I have to take a nap first ;)
In all honesty mrr1, your absolute best option is to go chat with one of the specialist suspension companies and maybe get them to set your suspension up for you on the bike, it often transforms the way it handles. Not stupidly expensive either.
think suspension guru is way to go. I know I'm grounding out on casing protection because the front is now too low. And thats the problem - I love being able to tip the bike in just by a bit of hip movement.
I guess the other disadvantage , along with grounding out, is that at night the headlamp only lights up ten feet in front of the bike.........
Quote from: mrr1 on Friday, 23 June 2017, 03:20 AM
I guess the other disadvantage , along with grounding out, is that at night the headlamp only lights up ten feet in front of the bike.........
Osram Nightbreaker or Philips Xtreme bulb will work wonders as will the Osram Night Racer (which is essentially the Nightbreaker but a little more resilient for fitting to motorcycles, so will "accept" more vibration (in theory)).
All the above are very similar in improving beam pattern and throw of light especially on high beam, so which ever is the best price at the time or takes your fancy. I've used all 3 and can't fault any of them
Mrr1, adjust it. will work much better.