Looks like I need to get some new fork seals...
Back on the old/other forum IIRC there was quite a lot of stuff about which fork seals to avoid, and which are OK.
Also I think someone said Kawasaki seals are the same?
Does anyone have that info?
Also, on the other forum, I think there was a thing about the tool you use to stop the innards rotating when undoing the bolt in the end of the leg - any ideas?
Mine's a late 2001 K2.
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=378.msg10270#msg10270
just search the forum
kawasaki fork seals are the same not sure of part numbers but suzuki dropped the price of standard ones so nothing in the price.
good luck
Twas me who posted about the Kawasaki seals - but as Seth says Suzuki then dropped the price so nowt in it.
I did have a fork tool, but sent them to SPizzoil when I sold my 1400, who became the new custodian, so if you need to borrow the K2 fork tool, pm Spizzoil ;)
I made a fork tool by grinding four slots with a grinder in the end of a 1" tube. Genuine Suzuki seals are about £10 each so not worth the hassle of fitting 'owt else. Worth doing the dust seals too if they are at all worn/hard as they keep the crap out so your fork seals last a lot longer.
remember early k2/3/4
are different internals to k5 on and need a different cartridge tool.
I have done a few sets of 14 seals and quite a few others on different machines, don't use the magic up top special tool for different brands. Just an air gun ratchet with a made up fitting to the hex head bolt down below. The speed of the gun has the bolt undone before the top end knows what is going on. Just keep the spring tension on.
Jeff
Got my new seals from All Balls Racing
Link - http://www.allballsracing.com/56-150.html
Been in for 2 and a half years and around 8000 miles and no problems.
To hold the cartridge I used an old broom handle with the end kind if castellated and it held it fine - think I was lucky there.
:rofl2: another cheap skate like me, most of my broom handles have some shape or other cut into the end :clapping:
Seals on order from Robinsons, I've got an All Balls bush kit - just in case, Spiz has sent the fork tool.
So just need a free weekend to do the job!
Just looking through some of the You Tube stuff, it seems like the screw at the bottom of the leg might come out with a quick tap while the spring pressure is still on it.
Thanks for the advice chaps!
Quote from: Dusty ST on Wednesday, 21 June 2017, 08:33 PM
Seals on order from Robinsons, I've got an All Balls bush kit - just in case, Spiz has sent the fork tool.
So just need a free weekend to do the job!
Just looking through some of the You Tube stuff, it seems like the screw at the bottom of the leg might come out with a quick tap while the spring pressure is still on it.
Thanks for the advice chaps!
Might - if you are lucky!!! This thread may be worth a read too.....
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=220.0
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Wednesday, 21 June 2017, 11:36 PM
This thread may be worth a read too.....
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=220.0
Good stuff. Looks like I went for the wrong weight oil when I changed it last: Rock Oil SVI 10W, which according to this comparison is quite heavy, and might explain why rebound seems a bit slow, feeling like the front wheel is just off the ground with moderate acceleration.
https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
Castrol 5W looks to be pretty close to Suzuki L01 oil.
All done, new seals, dust covers, and bushes, out for a test ride this afternoon.
Couple of things - as I've bought them I've fitted the new fork bushes, but the originals looked perfect on their bearing surfaces, which have done 51k miles, and the old oil wasn't nice at all, even though it's only been in for around 3 or 4k miles, since I drained it to repaint the lowers a while ago, I was expecting it to be nice and clean. I think there was quite a build up of sludge, which you can't clean out just by draining the oil.
The fork tool worked perfectly, only needed on re assembly if the lower bolt is loosened before unscrewing the top cap.
Quote from: Dusty ST on Sunday, 09 July 2017, 08:51 PM
and the old oil wasn't nice at all, even though it's only been in for around 3 or 4k miles, since I drained it to repaint the lowers a while ago, I was expecting it to be nice and clean. I think there was quite a build up of sludge, which you can't clean out just by draining the oil.
Just draining won't get rid of the crud. Either disassemble and clean or pump a few times with the damper rod to get more of the oil out and then use a good dash of "wash petrol" to rinse out the rest.