Have synced my throttle. Now I wonder if I have to sync again when I do the TPS adjustment (still have to get a multimeter though). Does it matter which one is done first?
I think I would probably do TPS first and then sync throttle bodies.
Sync first.
The TPS runs off the first throttle body & until you sync them you don't know it's reading correctly for all four.
Sync first. Idle speed hot then tps.
Thanks mates for your answers. I may have been lucky (as usual) by syncing first. Will follow that up by adjusting TPS.
When I do this again I might do TPS first, then sync the throttle bodies, and then check the TPS again. Why?don't really know, but was recommended in a couple places.
Doing it twice sounds pointless to me. As soon as you adjust the sync between no1 & no2 OR no2 & no3 then you'll be changing the TPS reading for that throttle position anyway.
You are correct, it would be pointless to adjust the TPS before the Throttle-Body-Synchronization.
The following bits of info come from an EFI-specialist on a german 14 forum.
To get the engine to run for synchronization you must disconnect the IAP sensor coupler so the ECU is forced to enter into fail-safe-mode. In fail-safe-mode the TPS value is not used by the ECU.
After synching and restoring all connections, etc. check and adjust the TPS.
After that, the EFI guy recommends to clear the ECU's "adjustment memory" by following this procedure:
disconnect the ground cable from the battery
turn on the ignition (don't start engine) so the capacitors in the ECU discharge fully, drink a cup of coffee
turn ignition off
reconnect ground cable of the battery
turn ignition on
fully open and fully close the throttle, repeat
without touching the throttle, start the engine and let it idle a couple minutes
take a ride
(Corrected above procedure, thanks to Blubber)
Doing things like opening the throttle when starting the engine or pulling the clutch lever at higher speeds while letting the bike roll out, cause the ECU to enter "junk" into its adjustment memory/map. Same with incorrect sensor values. Without the above procedure it takes quite a while before the ECU clears these entries itself.
Yesterday I made synchronization again. The difference to last time was that i lowered the idle rpm from 1500 to 1100, then to 900.
The lower I adjusted rpm:s, measurement became more accurate. Then back to 1100 rpm and adjusting TPS to 1107 ohms.
Then back to 1500 rpm ( I use higher idle rpm, because otherwise the turbo will stop on idle).
Now it runs smoother and engine is more lively under 2000 rpm
good info Andre. never heard of before on 14 but makes great sense. we do it lots on cars. can bus reset we call it. disconnect battery, join positive lead to negative, drains the capacitors. wait around a minute , re connect battery. then lock/unlock. then ignition on for a minute or so, then start car. works well. the computers get confused, just a re set same as any computer, just they all have different ways of doing it. my mates ducati wouldnt start, followed this and away he went, never anymore probs. ducati shop couldnt get it going.
Quote from: Andre on Monday, 12 June 2017, 04:18 AM
After that, the EFI guy recommends to clear the ECU's "adjustment memory" by following this procedure:
disconnect the battery
turn on the ignition (don't start engine) so the capacitors in the ECU discharge fully
fully open and fully close the throttle, repeat
turn ignition off
without touching the throttle, start the engine and let it idle a couple minutes
take a ride
where in this sequence would you reconnect the battery?
I suppose preferably after the discharge :whatever:
Good catch
@Blubber :grin:
Caused me to review my writing more carefully. There were a few more hiccups in my description of the procedure. Shouldn't write from memory and when tired where detail is important. Here is the correct procedure:
disconnect the ground cable from the battery
turn on the ignition (don't start engine) so the capacitors in the ECU discharge fully, drink a cup of coffee
turn ignition off
reconnect ground cable of the battery
turn ignition on
fully open and fully close the throttle, repeat
without touching the throttle, start the engine and let it idle a couple minutes
take a ride
Corrected this in my previous post as well.
Thank you much Blubber!
Quote from: grog on Friday, 09 June 2017, 09:59 PM
Sync first. Idle speed hot then tps.
Yes, engine should be at operating temperature for both procedures.
Thank you for the update :notworthy:
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 10 June 2017, 02:10 AM
Thanks mates for your answers. I may have been lucky (as usual) by syncing first. Will follow that up by adjusting TPS.
When I do this again I might do TPS first, then sync the throttle bodies, and then check the TPS again. Why?don't really know, but was recommended in a couple places.
Hi Andre, if you do it next time, I am really interest to know will the TPS reading difference before and after sync the TB. Thanks !
@rollerfish01 I would like to know myself. Unfortunately, I already synced the TB without doing the TPS measurement first. Will have to wait till next year. Maybe someone else will do and post the results here.
The difference totally depends on how far out of sync the throttle bodies were.
You need some special gadget to sync the throttle bodies from what I understand, it's not something I have, so will have to put mine into the shop (shudder) and have them do it.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 16 June 2017, 10:16 AM
You need some special gadget to sync the throttle bodies from what I understand, it's not something I have, so will have to put mine into the shop (shudder) and have them do it.
I use a carbtune pro for this. Easy to use. Not to deer... About €80 new.
Cheers Richard, I'll look them up on e-bay
Just brought one, cost $163 AUD, about $170-175NZD. That'll pay for itself easy. Thx Richard.
how far out of adjustment has anyone found? is it really a problem?
The biggest difference i had on my gsx1400 was 20% , measured on idle speed.
It caused a slight vibration to be seen in the mirrors. ( only checked it as a standard routine for a new to me bike )
On my Suzuki GSX100EF ( GS1150 for some) the imbalance on the carbs caused a rattle in the clutch area due to play in several parts.
On my Honda GL1100 '80 - a 4 cylinder boxer motor - a small difference caused huge effect on pulling away.When balanced no vibrations to be felt from the engine.
I think a fuel injected IL4 is much more forgiving than the older carbureted bikes.