Well, I see nobody has posted on Tools & Accessories, so I'm going to start,
If you plan on doing (basically) anything at all with a 14, you're going to need a Torque Wrench, or more precisely probably 3 of them.
I've read Suzuki made a lot of bikes out of a putty / peanut butter combination & even if you use the specific torque for a certain bolt, it can (and has) be too much & resulted in stripped threads, gnashing of teeth and ripping out of hair! So, to save your hair & protect your teeth, please buy a couple of good grade Torque Wrenches to enable you to get the job done right.
top tip
also remember any torque settings are only valid on new bolts
if you re-use an old bolt there's a good chance of you tighten to the correct torque it
will snap off.
And for exhaust studs... you are on your own
when i did my exhaust studs to fit the akroprovic
i soaked the bolts with penetrating oil a
over a couple of days then warmed up the engine nice and hot and sprayed wd40 as i slowly and gently loosened each one still managed to snap 3 of them but it were long enough to weld a nut on them they came straight out then while still hot from welding. :frustrated:
Out of interest, what wrench sizes/ ranges do people go for? I've got two already so intruiged to see how they compare.
I have a big 1/2" drive one which I bought for working on the Land Rover.
Will have to get myself a 1/4" drive one. A mate has this and reckons it's a good 'un.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ToolPro-Torque-Wrench-1-4-Drive/214303#Recommendations
Deflecting beam torque 'wrenches' are excellent, but expensive.
Australian brand 'Warren and Brown" is as good as any and better than most.
http://wbtools.com.au/product-category/torque-wrenches/
This is also good advice (from the Honda forum I mod)
Quote
Good to get a low range & a high range if you can. I prefer a 5-40 lb/ft (3/8"drive) for the lower range & use a 1/2" drive (150 lb/ft) longer arm wrench for the higher torqued nuts & bolts such as swing arm, heads, primary, clutch, fly wheel etc. What ever you buy don't do what I did some years ago & leave the wrench at a setting. I forgot to release the tension on the wrench & it was done up for a few days before I noticed. The wrench was ruined. It was a 10-150 lb/ft wrench & after the spring was ruined it would only start at 40 lb/ft. Wrench should be stored at the lowest setting
From my understanding, torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of their scale, either end of the range can be a bit out. So I have 3 to cover all the bits on the bike while using the middle of the scale.
They are a precision instrument (or were when new) & you should keep them in the container they came in. Always release the settings back to zero & don't use them as a ratchet for general socket work & never use them to undo things.
Yes, you have to pay for good quality tools, but what's the point in buying a cheap wrench & finding out the hard way the scale is way off.
Nothing to add to the comments form Vlad and Kiwicol. Totally agree with winding back to lowest setting after use, I also wrecked a snap on TW I was given some years ago cos I left it at 50lbs/ft for about 4 months.... expensive mistake!
Ouch!
I've got a 5-25Nm and 20-110Nm wrench at the moment, having just bought them as I come to need them. Both are 3/8" drive.
I torque everything I can get a value on, otherwise I tend to tighten until it snaps.
I have a couple. One I have had for years. Massive thing. Only good for car/bike wheel nuts.
Then I bought a great little wrench from Halfords. Came recommended in a bike mag. Been worth it's weight in gold. More of a 'bike' torque wrench with a lower scale.
Again - I always wind it off after every use.
Halfords kit is as good as you'll get without paying loads for it
comes with a lifetime warranty too.
i have a lot of there professional range including my roller cabinet
:boogie2: :boogie:
+1 for Halfords Professional range :onya:
I've got a 1/4" drive Teng Tools torque wrench for the small stuff like cam cover bolts and a big 1/2" drive one for rear axle nut etc.
Most of the other bits I do by "Feel"
As for removing header bolts, I have my own methods for getting them out in one piece..Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't :boogie:
Quote from: VladTepes on Wednesday, 01 February 2017, 04:03 PM
I have a big 1/2" drive one which I bought for working on the Land Rover.
Will have to get myself a 1/4" drive one. A mate has this and reckons it's a good 'un.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ToolPro-Torque-Wrench-1-4-Drive/214303#Recommendations
Deflecting beam torque 'wrenches' are excellent, but expensive.
Australian brand 'Warren and Brown" is as good as any and better than most.
http://wbtools.com.au/product-category/torque-wrenches/
This is also good advice (from the Honda forum I mod)
Quote
Good to get a low range & a high range if you can. I prefer a 5-40 lb/ft (3/8"drive) for the lower range & use a 1/2" drive (150 lb/ft) longer arm wrench for the higher torqued nuts & bolts such as swing arm, heads, primary, clutch, fly wheel etc. What ever you buy don't do what I did some years ago & leave the wrench at a setting. I forgot to release the tension on the wrench & it was done up for a few days before I noticed. The wrench was ruined. It was a 10-150 lb/ft wrench & after the spring was ruined it would only start at 40 lb/ft. Wrench should be stored at the lowest setting
I have that small supercheap one. very happy with it and got it on special. its perfect for most bike applications except axle nuts etc. would defo recommend it.
i got two... 1/2 drive (200nm) and the 1/4 drive (30nm) from supercheap and adaptors to fit 1/4- 3/8 -1/2 inch drive sockets and there one deaded bolt i don t have to worry about since i fitted a fumoto a couple of years ago :boogie:
Quote from: stick3 on Thursday, 09 February 2017, 12:26 PM
i got two... 1/2 drive (200nm) and the 1/4 drive (30nm) from supercheap and adaptors to fit 1/4- 3/8 -1/2 inch drive sockets and there one deaded bolt i don t have to worry about since i fitted a fumoto a couple of years ago :boogie:
Watch the ground clearance with the Fumoto, speaking from a bad escperience
Quote from: Bov on Thursday, 09 February 2017, 01:37 PM
Quote from: stick3 on Thursday, 09 February 2017, 12:26 PM
i got two... 1/2 drive (200nm) and the 1/4 drive (30nm) from supercheap and adaptors to fit 1/4- 3/8 -1/2 inch drive sockets and there one deaded bolt i don t have to worry about since i fitted a fumoto a couple of years ago :boogie:
Watch the ground clearance with the Fumoto, speaking from a bad escperience
yes bov im very careful going over speed humps or any bumps that look to steep but lot do have gaps at the side or middle and how many sumps have been rip out compared to stripped threads
Yeah the better of 2 evils, I ripped mine out getting into a pub car park, wrecked our MCR trip so its not in there anymore. Just done an old change with the OEM sump plug as I have many times before no problem.
I put a post about it on the old Org site, the difference in clearance between the 2 is huge, take care.
check out my thread in members rides... that was done with a STANDARD sump plug ... fumoto would be worse....
I have two torque wrenches. 1/2" 20-210nm and 1/4" 7-70nm, and I hade tested them in Stahlwilles test bench, and I have made a chart of their declinations. Cheap wrenches can easily have 10-15% errors on some settings and that error is not linear!!