Hello,
I have recently had an issue with my GSX hesitating when accelerating.
I tried new plugs and have removed the injector bodies.
The bike was fine before I put it away for the winter but then it started this issue.
For those that have had problems like this before it turned out to be the tea bag filter or low pressure filter at the bottom of the fuel pump inside the tank. Suzuki call it the fuel pump strainer. It was full of rusting horrible bits
This is an easy DIY job so have a go ensuring the tank is nearly empty as you dont want to ruin your paint work. the High Pressure filter (the big black bit also comes apart and I managed to find a utube guide to assist as well. Use carb cleaner to flush out this filter.
An original t bag filter is around £65.00 so it is worth having a look before you buy one as you can clean the old one with carb cleaner to get rid of most of the debris. Make sure you clean out the bowl it sits in as well.
Hope this helps. :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Well done - but had you looked here....
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=430.0
You might also run a couple of tankful of BP Ultimate or similar through as well to clean up any residue in the system. I found running it in my 14 all the time significantly reduced the clogging and muck around the filter and throughout the rest of the fuel system
Had the very same issue cleaned the bowl where the pump sits and cleaned the tea bag.. Problem solved
a better thing to do is by pass the high pressure filter. fit external one. on here somewhere. no more problems, just clean out external every now and then. tea bag pick up filters are fairly universal. easy for me as in car repair business. i just grab a good one when we change car pumps. ill try and find a suitable one and post what it is.
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=87.0
there are links here for tea-bag filters 5 for £7
:cheers:
Just wondering what the exact problem was with your GSX? I've just brought a gsx1400 k5 model with 6785 miles on the clock. Got insured for it Saturday and took it out and noticed sometimes I'd open it up and it'll stutter I guess is the best way to describe it as if It's not getting fuel for a second then starts pulling like a train. Didn't know if it was because it's been converted to a 4 into 2 exhaust system and maybe needs a remap or if it's likely to be the tea bag filter?
I did read your other post saying it in fact turned out to be the ignition coil breaking down but not sure if a bike with such little mileage would have a problem like the coils breaking down?
The 4 into 2 conversion will have had no impact at all on fuelling Michael.
Given the low mileage of your bike, its possible that its lack of use rather than anything else! What I would suggest is running a 2-3 tankfuls of Shell Optimax or BP Ultimate through to give the injection system a bit of a clean out. You could use injector cleaner, but in my experience, using the better grade fuels works better as they have better detergents in which should clear the issue. If however she still does it after that, then there's a possibility that you may need to clean out the fuel pump/filter, but at present I doubt it.
The other aspect you could check is for any slack in your throttle cables, it tells you how to adjust these in the handbook. Sometimes if they are a little loose, cracking the throttle open injects a tad more juice than normal and causes a slight stutter whilst the system catches up and clears the excess fuel
Could be a dirty clutch switch too, mine is always a twat when that plays up. I just fill it with switch cleaner/WD40 (depends whats to hand) & carry on. The switch never needs replacing.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Tuesday, 13 June 2017, 03:58 AM
The other aspect you could check is for any slack in your throttle cables, it tells you how to adjust these in the handbook. Sometimes if they are a little loose, cracking the throttle open injects a tad more juice than normal and causes a slight stutter whilst the system catches up and clears the excess fuel
Could be the cables then, throttle does have a fair bit of play in it if that's what you mean by loose cables?
Quote from: Michael Whitney on Tuesday, 13 June 2017, 07:45 AM
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Tuesday, 13 June 2017, 03:58 AM
The other aspect you could check is for any slack in your throttle cables, it tells you how to adjust these in the handbook. Sometimes if they are a little loose, cracking the throttle open injects a tad more juice than normal and causes a slight stutter whilst the system catches up and clears the excess fuel
Could be the cables then, throttle does have a fair bit of play in it if that's what you mean by loose cables?
Exactly what I mean Michael :onya:
Probable a stupid question but why does that cause it to stutter? Been on a carb'd bandit 600 for 3 years lol, throttle play would just mean having to twist throttle further before it started accelerating.
makes the difference because its not carbs its fuel injection and needs everything to be correctly adjusted to give a smooth operation and run properly.
Quote from: Michael Whitney on Tuesday, 13 June 2017, 07:55 AM
Probable a stupid question but why does that cause it to stutter? Been on a carb'd bandit 600 for 3 years lol, throttle play would just mean having to twist throttle further before it started accelerating.
The 14 is fuel injected, like mentioned in the post above. It injects fuel based on the throttle position but still uses butterfly valves in the throttle bodies to regulate the air.
The afr ( air fuel ratio) has a optimal range.
On the left side of your throttle bodies is the tps. Throttle position sensor. On the right side is de stps.. Secondary throttle position sensor. These 2 sensors need to be set correctly vs the actual valve positions...the tps being the most important one.
Especially in the low rev range, a small difference in the tps can cause a huge on / off effect.
See it as injecting fuel based on a 10% open valve whilst it only 5% open.... It will be over fueling.
The slack in the throttle cables can cause problems because it allows the butterfly valves to move due to the suction of the running engine. This movement is transferred to the tps and the ecu will inject based on the movement....Whilst you think you are keeping the throttle steady.
Very good description Richard.
excellent description, very good if not brilliant.
Adjusted my throttle cables recently after reading of there importance.
Its just a nicer bike to ride, much smoother at slow speed.
Ah yeah forgot fuel injected bikes have a tps etc lol, duh! My CBF 125 is fuel injected but been on bandit 600 which is carb'd for 3 years so it's odd not having things like a fuel tap for example lol or a choke.
I know it's off topic and should probably start a new thread about it but I just went to increase the preload on the rear shocks and it didn't seem to do anything. Again though first time I've owned a bike with the preload adjustment being a little knob on the side and I only turned it half a turn if that, thinking about it I'm guessing it needs quite a few turns for it to start increasing or decreasing the preload? Saw no movement at all though.
Quote from: Michael Whitney on Tuesday, 13 June 2017, 07:48 PM
Again though first time I've owned a bike with the preload adjustment being a little knob on the side and I only turned it half a turn if that, thinking about it I'm guessing it needs quite a few turns for it to start increasing or decreasing the preload? Saw no movement at all though.
You have found a weak spot on the 14. We don't like to talk about that :facepalm:
The black knop you mention is indeed the hydraulic pre load adjuster. It has a "S" - softer and a "H" - harder with a turn direction mentioned.
Being hydraulic is uses oil. The problem our 14 has is that the o-ring used to keep the oil inside easily accumulates dirt from use.
This dirt gets trapped between the o-ring when trying to alter the settings causing the oil to leak.
Annoyingly but totally curable .
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=24
So should it only take like half a turn for it to start adjusting the preload or does it take a few turns? Also haven't noticed any oil leaking and was told by another owner of a 14 that my shocks are the newer ones, the older ones had leaking issues like you mentioned but the newer ones aren't prone to leaking. Not sure if he's correct or not though.
it takes a few turns from softest to hardest setting
the newer shocks have red springs (olders shocks have silver springs) but are still prone to the same problems but it takes a little longer .
follow blubbers link as they can be fixed old and newer once :cheers:
Tried it earlier did take more turns than I thought lol I've raised them up a bit as I'm a heavy guy lol. Wouldn't mind getting risers for the rear shocks at some point. At least Ik the preload adjuster works as intended for now.