Clean out your Fuel Filters and Tank - and other tips!

[Andre]

I got one of the cheap filters on Amazon. No issues. Cleaned the tank first using electrolysis (sodium carbonate, distilled water, and ancient battery charger). Amazing what came out of it even though looking through the filler hole showed only one small spot of rust. Teabag had no rust on it and HP-filter a little bit of brown coming out.

Was going to do a write-up, but between too many other things going on and dislike of writing it didn't happen. Here is the link to the site (if you want to see pics) and a (non-proof-read google translation:

https://www.gs-classic.de/tipps/tank_07.htm

When the brown plague is raging, as it is with this tank, it is not too late, but it is time to act.
One of many solutions is so-called electrolytic cleaning or fine cleaning. Professionals usually use it as the last cleaning step before galvanic coating. The principle is quite simple and is also suitable for home use.

What you need for this is usually available in every workshop or household. You can use a battery charger (B) or a power supply with around 2 to max. 10 A as a power source, which supplies the direct current. A threaded rod (e.g. M6) is suitable as an anode (A), which is bent so that it can be pushed through the filler neck and fits well into the tank. At the upper end it is screwed to a plastic spray can lid, which insulates the anode from the tank (cathode).

The secret is the electrolyte (E), which makes the whole process possible. Hobby mechanics often use simple washing soda, as it consists mainly of sodium carbonate - an excellent electrolyte that does not smell and is not corrosive. The picture shows "Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda". Products such as "dm PURE SODA"; "Holste Washing Soda" (Rossmann), "REWE Washing Soda", "Christiane Hinsch Washing Soda" or "Heitmann Pure Soda" work just as well.
The powder is simply dissolved in water according to the instructions on the package. A slightly richer solution is also fine.

Construction of the "cleaning system"
To avoid paint damage, the tank is well wrapped in plastic film and taped to the edges. The fuel tap is removed and a suitable metal strip (1.5 - 2 mm) and a rubber seal (bicycle tube) are screwed on instead. The negative terminal of the direct current source is attached to one of the screws.The tank thus becomes the cathode. The positive terminal is clamped to the prepared anode, namely to a protruding end of the threaded rod. Now you can fill the tank with electrolyte and switch on the power source.
Tip: If you screw two nuts onto the threaded rod and lock them, it will not be damaged and you can remove it later at any time to replace it.

Good things take time.
After applying the voltage, a relatively high current will initially flow, but after a short time it will settle down to a lower value.
The picture shows the anode after about 2 days in the very rusty tank. Some deposits have formed that need to be removed to speed up the process.

With a clean anode, you should continue until the anode shows no further deposits. Depending on the amount of rust, the cleaning will take between 1 and 3 days.

Someone has to give in.
If the ions zip back and forth like this with this method, someone has to suffer. Here it is our anode, which is slowly dissolving (arrows). If it becomes too thin, it should be replaced.
You can also clearly see its simple structure in the picture: a bent threaded rod that is screwed to the plastic cover using washers and nuts.

Once the rust has been removed from the tank, it must be cleaned, dried and, if possible, sealed. How to do this is explained at the end of this description.

Last but not least, the inevitable safety instructions:

The most important thing is: take your time. If you rush things, you risk your health and the result is not the best.

Empty the tank and let it air out well so that no fuel vapors can develop. If the tank is badly rusted or already rusted through (bubbles on the outside surface), it cannot be saved.

The electrolyte can irritate the eyes and skin. If it comes into contact with the eyes, rinse thoroughly with water and consult a doctor. If the powder or solution is swallowed, drink plenty of water or diluted lemon juice immediately. This dilutes or neutralizes the alkaline broth. And if you have any complaints, you must go to "Uncle Doc".

The electrolyte can be reused. If you store it for a while, the dirty sludge will settle and you can pour off the clear liquid.

If you want to get rid of the electrolyte, you can dilute it with a lot of water and pour it into the sewage system, as it is actually a detergent. Larger amounts of leftover washing soda powder should be disposed of in a suitable manner in accordance with local regulations. And never store it near acids, zinc or aluminum.

When handling the battery charger or power supply, always unplug the power cord first to prevent sparks or short circuits.

During cleaning, gases are formed, namely oxygen and hydrogen. The latter is explosive and has a notorious reputation as an oxyhydrogen gas. So you should make sure that the room you are working in is well ventilated. Also, never disconnect the electrical connections without first pulling the power plug. Otherwise, there could be a terrible bang all of a sudden!

Don't forget: An electro-chemical process is taking place here. If the whole thing generates too much heat, you have to stop and wait until everything has cooled down again. So check the work of the "cleaning system" more often!

This method could also be used for paint removal - so be very careful!

The old charger worked well with it's 4 Amp max. Kept the heat low that way.

[MickyJB]

Micky great work. IMO only, hp filter is weakest link in a 14.Cleaning it out just temp fix, it wont be perfect. External filter mod all on here, best thing ive done to mine.Can of worms for some.If thats not an option, can remember someone found replacement hi pressure filter for not much money. Genuine is  stupid price.Someone will remember link to cheaper, id be getting one.Youll be amazed how much better bike goes.I think Seth knows place for cheap tea bags also.

It's a confidence thing, until I fill the tank and it starts that will be a win 


If the issues are fixed I'll be happy , next time maybe the external filter mod .. slowly slowly 😀

One thing I did try was bridging out the dealer plug and all I got was a CHEC message on the screen, I had taken the tank off at that stage so thinking that may have confused the ECU 🙏🤷🤷

[MickyJB]

This method could also be used for paint removal - so be very careful!

The old charger worked well with it's 4 Amp max. Kept the heat low that way.

My tank was very clean inside. Could not see a spec of dirt / rust except for a few dirty specs on the filler neck.

Can't say the same about the low and high pressure filters. Though I'm confident the HP is as clean as it can be without physically seeing it. I'll do the mod or buy a new HP filter if I continue to have issues.

[Andre]

My tank was very clean inside. Could not see a spec of dirt / rust except for a few dirty specs on the filler neck.

Your pics tell a different story

My

Teabag had no rust on it and HP-filter a little bit of brown coming out.

[MickyJB]

My tank was very clean inside. Could not see a spec of dirt / rust except for a few dirty specs on the filler neck.

Your pics tell a different story

My

Teabag had no rust on it and HP-filter a little bit of brown coming out.

I know !!  How lucky am I 

The big test is yet to come 

[MickyJB]

Well I'm happy to say the bike is running awesome, what a huge difference .. it nearly pulled my arms out of my shoulder joints ... revs clean and powerful all the way.

Whilst I had the tank of doing the pump and filter clean and replace, my son came down and fitted new braided brake and clutch lines and bled and replaced the fluids .  We also put in new spark plugs.

I'm so pleased with the way the bike goes now it's a completely different bike.

[Mick_J]

Glad you got it sorted micky.

[grog]

Great job Micky👍They sure are good when running nice.