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Headset Bearing Replacement

Started by gsxbarmy, Wednesday, 01 March 2017, 09:12 PM

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gsxbarmy

Headset Bearing Replacement

For this job I made a tool out of an old 14 outer race tapered headset bearing. It’s just a plate welded across which once the new race is situated and started (squared up) and you get flush with the headstock, you start tapping with the tool (face to face and in the center of the plate) as now the tool too is pressing in (and keeping it all square). You will know when its home by the sound change. Then, using the large tags either side just tap down evenly and the tool will release. Job done and you know it’s seated correctly.
As for getting the bottom inner race off the shaft, well if you don't have the correct tools you can gently grind a slot into the race in one point only (best way is to use a Dremel. Be careful not to go through it as, as long as it’s close once you have the cut evenish in depth it will crack and release. Then just prise it off. Don't throw this race away because you can use it to go over the new race bearing, small diameter down onto the race then you can’t damage the new bearing by clouting it. Put a tube down onto the old bearing and start knocking it down. As before as it lowers onto the bearing face it will keep itself square and once you are home just slide off.
Some of you may think why grind? Usually it won’t prise off like the manual says and there have been a couple of disasters for some members who have tried pressing them off in the past (some using bent screwdrivers or bent bits of bar â€" crude but effective but can also cause damage if not careful).
One tip before you fit the new races - drop them in the freezer (for at least 30 mins, and heat the head tube using a hair dryer for about 10 min. When I came to put the outer rings into the frame, the temperature differential meant they just about pushed in by hand. You have to be quick, though
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

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