(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-030217214231.jpeg)
more top work barmy :cheers:
I had this printed out a couple of years ago as it is a great article. Just changed my suspension to Kevs settings and worked a treat
:worshippy:
Hi
I have used both these settings in the past however it still felt quite soft, it may be wear and tear on the suspension not helping.
I have a question please.
I am due to take my first trip, with lugage and pillion.
I did a test run with all the suspensions set to the max, is this a bad idea?
Bike went ok however steering was a bit light.
All help appreciated.
Ps I have recently filled the rear shocks with oil and they appear to now be working a treat
No not a bad idea, however, you may not be getting the optimum even so. I would suggest that getting the bike setup for you by a suspension specialist would be a top move, a number of us have had this done in the past and it transforms how the mighty 14 handles. Cost generally is around the £80 mark, but its money well spent. Maxton's is always a good shout for getting it setup up your way, not sure how far a trip it may be , but would be a worthwhile trip.
If not then I would suggest in the first instance to change the front fork oil (if not done already), and then setup again using MCN settings and then make one change at a time to find out if better or worse, noting the changes as you go. It may take a while, but in the end you too find the optimum setting for how you ride.
I was playing with different size rear tyres and a jack-up kits, I'm 80kg with no pillion, mostly mountain roads etc.
I used the softer MCN setting on the rear, and the firmer one on the front.
I did a few more adjustments afterwards but it was a good starting point for me.
How did you find the jack up kit Tony?
Quote from: owen426 on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 02:26 PM
How did you find the jack up kit Tony?
It suits me personally. Some do it for the look, I did it to change the steering and turn in.
I understand a lot of folk don't like them, that's their opinion. To me the 14 has pretty lazy geometry, it's slow steering and drags its pegs too easy. No, I don't want a sports bike, I like the 14's size, grunt and mechanics, so lifting the rear was an improvement for me.
I'll probably upset a few folk by fitting a steering damper in the future as I have noticed a change in stability at speed. My Busa, B-King, GSXR all have dampers, they let you run sportier geometry and have top end stability.
I do think the jack up kits are on the high side though. I think longer shocks would be ideal, a middle ground between a taller tyre and a jack up kit.
It's narrow minded to say they are great or crap.
They just suit some folk and not others.
I don't necessarily think they are crap, but I do think too many fit them without making the necessary adjustments for the changed steering geometry which leads them to think they are crap.
If as Barmy suggested getting it set up is not your thing. I'd say start as you are with it set to max and just have a play with it as you go. As has been said already one adjustment at a time.
Enjoy your trip.
Look forward to reading a trip report when you get back :cheers:
my opinion only, not a suspension expert at all. yrs back i tried the mcn settings, up and down. basically didnt know what was better or worse.spent many hours. i gave up. took it to local suspension guru. he uprated forks, shocks, set to my weight, 90kgs, have never touched adjusters again. might go up a ring on rear if mrs and load on, spring pre load that is. best bucks ive spent. much better bike, no big dollars spent on replacement shockies. wilbers oil n springs in front. rears just re built. 800 all up. handles perfectly, again, my opinion only. some will say a cheap way to do it, must have ohlins etc. i dont think so, it works.
I like Ohlins, i dont doubt they are a quality product.
The question I ask myself is does everything else on my bike justify them?
It's an old heavy and dated design, and am I a good enough rider to benefit from
them over other cheaper alternatives?
Having said that, if it was my only bike, and I had a fat wallet I probably would,
certainly before I'd buy the same-old useless bling options.
Compared to some of the dinosaurs I've owned or ridden, I don't actually think
the 14's forks or shocks are that bad. Yes, they can be improved on, but set up
in good condition they work pretty well.
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 06:45 PM
Compared to some of the dinosaurs I've owned or ridden, I don't actually think
the 14's forks or shocks are that bad. Yes, they can be improved on, but set up
in good condition they work pretty well.
I agree with you on that mostly, but at 105 kg the forks are not good. was using the mcn settings in the front and tryed them all but nothing could stop the diving under brakes. this affected the handling immensely. Having to brake, wait for the dive then get into hard braking was a real rhythm breaker.
Anyhow $$ spent on linear springs and revalve was without a doubt the best upgrade I have done on the old girl
Quote from: Steve on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 07:03 PM
Quote from: Tony Nitrous on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 06:45 PM
Compared to some of the dinosaurs I've owned or ridden, I don't actually think
the 14's forks or shocks are that bad. Yes, they can be improved on, but set up
in good condition they work pretty well.
I agree with you on that mostly, but at 105 kg the forks are not good. was using the mcn settings in the front and tryed them all but nothing could stop the diving under brakes. this affected the handling immensely. Having to brake, wait for the dive then get into hard braking was a real rhythm breaker.
Anyhow $$ spent on linear springs and revalve was without a doubt the best upgrade I have done on the old girl
Absolutely. I don't doubt that better springs / oil / valves will improve things.
I was thinking more of the actual overall design and build, and meaning they don't need to be changed to another more modern type such as "upside downs".
(I do fancy a different front end but that's just personal taste and liking the feel
of shorter travel USD's and radial brakes)
Steve, i forgot that bit. the dive under brakes and between gear changes. all gone. just smooth sailing. biggest part i found. a different bike. sorry Tony, i know stuff all about better forks. as said before, i tested a few new bikes, theirs were just terrible. mt09, mv brutale. if they are good, mine are better, sometimes old skool is ok.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 07:49 AM
I would suggest that getting the bike setup for you by a suspension specialist would be a top move, a number of us have had this done in the past and it transforms how the mighty 14 handles. Cost generally is around the £80 mark, but its money well spent. Maxton's is always a good shout for getting it setup up your way, not sure how far a trip it may be , but would be a worthwhile trip.
I am on that track as I find it the most optimal and efficient. I'll have it done at a renowned suspension specialist near me. First I'll get my original rears (absolutelly don't want anything else) rebuild there and change the forks's oil. I have to wait another 6 weeks as everything they do is by appointment only.
I am contemplating if I should put new fork springs in. I would appreciate you guys' advice as to
linear or progressive springs or to just keep the original. 14 has 45000 km. I am 105kg. Riding style is 'mixed'. Routes are either small roads with lots of corners or high speed Autobahn. Appreciate your input.
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 07:45 PM
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 07:49 AM
I would suggest that getting the bike setup for you by a suspension specialist would be a top move, a number of us have had this done in the past and it transforms how the mighty 14 handles. Cost generally is around the £80 mark, but its money well spent. Maxton's is always a good shout for getting it setup up your way, not sure how far a trip it may be , but would be a worthwhile trip.
I am on that track as I find it the most optimal and efficient. I'll have it done at a renowned suspension specialist near me. First I'll get my original rears (absolutelly don't want anything else) rebuild there and change the forks's oil. I have to wait another 6 weeks as everything they do is by appointment only.
I am contemplating if I should put new fork springs in. I would appreciate you guys' advice as to linear or progressive springs or to just keep the original. 14 has 45000 km. I am 105kg. Riding style is 'mixed'. Routes are either small roads with lots of corners or high speed Autobahn. Appreciate your input.
The debate on whether linear or progressive springs has been long ongoing Andre! The purists will say linear, however many (including myself) fitted progressive and were very happy with the results. Having said that, in all honesty could I REALLY tell the difference between after market and original? No. I think if you get the fork oil changed so its all fresh before you get your forks set up, then the original springs will be just perfect once they are set up by the specialists. But if you really want to change them - why not ask the suspension shop you have your appointment with what they would recommend?
gsxbarmy, thank you much for your honest advice! I will likely go with that. Just for kicks I will ask the suspension guys the question about linear vs. progressives. When someday in the future fork seals have to be replaced, the spring-decision will be made then.
Thank you so much resurrecting the forum and for the plethora of information you and others provide. :boogie:
Quote from: Andre on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 11:11 PM
gsxbarmy, thank you much for your honest advice! I will likely go with that. Just for kicks I will ask the suspension guys the question about linear vs. progressives. When someday in the future fork seals have to be replaced, the spring-decision will be made then.
Thank you so much resurrecting the forum and for the plethora of information you and others provide. :boogie:
Thank Mike (Vladtepes) for that, without his foresight we'd all be lost! :worshippy:
Just for your interest - and if you really want to know the ins and outs (and there is a summary at the end!) - you might find these articles of interest:
http://www.promecha.com.au/springs_advanced.htm
http://automotivethinker.com/suspension/linear-vs-progressive-rate-springs/
The second one is more car related, but the principles are the same.
OK, the kudos go to Mike (
@VladTepes ) :worshippy:
Thank you for the articles. Not a racer but I like performance in the corners and don't mind a harsh ride - linear it will be (as currently in the originals). And I like the more consistent dampening and simpler adjustment of the linear springs. For me that is 3:1/2 points for linear.
Grog you mentioned something I have an issue with..
I Just purchased a K5 and the suspension drop through gear changes unsettles the bike to the point I don't like opening it up hard
Please advise me on what to do as my dealer wants to change oil, is this the answer possibly?
if it's done a few miles or never had the oil changed putting new oil will make a big difference to how the forks work .
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Saturday, 13 May 2017, 09:18 PM
The debate on whether linear or progressive springs has been long ongoing Andre! The purists will say linear, however many (including myself) fitted progressive and were very happy with the results. Having said that, in all honesty could I REALLY tell the difference between after market and original? No. I think if you get the fork oil changed so its all fresh before you get your forks set up, then the original springs will be just perfect once they are set up by the specialists. But if you really want to change them - why not ask the suspension shop you have your appointment with what they would recommend?
The suspension guy favors linears, which is no surprise as part of his business is service at the races. He told me that the 14's springs are progressives but it is so minor that they are practically linear.
Quote from: seth on Friday, 07 July 2017, 02:33 AM
if it's done a few miles or never had the oil changed putting new oil will make a big difference to how the forks work .
It's only done 5k miles but I presume oil is original and around 12 years old.
Yep, I'd be doing the fork oil if it were me. It's not a mammoth undertaking & one you can do yourself with a few std tools. There's a PDF file on the site - under downloads (up the top where it says 'Home' 'Forum' 'Help' etc) - general section.
Do the oil change & see how she feels after that. 5w is factory spec, some folk use 10w. There's pro's & cons for each, I'm not opening that can of worms here tonight.
@Andre - 105Kg!! Geez, you want to eat a few more dinners man! I'm a third heavier than that! 135kg. (Poor bike thinks it's 2 up all the time!)
Yep, I am a light weight :whistling: Now down to 102kg (from 117 last year). All weight loss due to being infected by the Barmy disease - polish, polish, polish :devil: I just can't stop, no time to eat :thumbs_down:
Just been shooting for another weight class in my sport of powerlifting :smitten:
+1 on the fork oil
I'd love to get down to 117kg, too much beer though. :cheers: Life is for living & enjoying, not being slotted into some ideal 'weight bracket' for my age. Right, next beer, here I come!
One has to set priorities :cheers: Beer is Liquid Bread (German piece of wisdom). 6 bottles (.5 L) a day and you have your maintenance calories on board.
Quote from: Andre on Friday, 07 July 2017, 04:57 PM
One has to set priorities :cheers: Beer is Liquid Bread (German piece of wisdom). 6 bottles (.5 L) a day and you have your maintenance calories on board.
We share that wisdom also in clogland.. 1 beer 330ml equals 2 slices of whole wheat bread calorie wise.
Must be because we adopted the bavarian brewing method ;)
And...
We could start a 100Kg plus subsection .. depending on what season ( Spring BBQ / Summer BBQ / Autumn BBQ / Winter BBQ :rofl2:) it's 110 - 115 kg here.
How about the following sections :
imperial porter
IPA
Red double rye etc :devil:
Harvey im no suspension expert, thats why i followed shops advice. wilbers progressive springs were fitted. i also dont know about linear v progressive. all i know is it works. so good i couldnt and still cant believe. diving is now non existent. forks just soak up bumps. 85 kg i weigh, was 100 4 yrs ago. gave up sugar, except beer, im a big drinker, lost 18kg. couple put back on but lost a whole size in clothes. nearly 5 yrs since an ice cream. fork upgrade was by far the best improvement on 14. coming from ducatis i hated 14 front end. now just as good. ive test ridden new bikes, mt07, mt09, gsx1000, i could really notice how bad the forks are. as i said, no expert, just my observations. was annoyed that if i bought a new bike, still needs to be modded.
According to the suspension guy, forks are getting worse. Ever more plastic in them to cut costs and then advertise how cool they are to make ever lighter bikes.
Hey there,
I know this is an old thread, but for what it's worth here's my 2 cents (plus hours of testing!)...
First up - the advice below is specific to my preferences, which I've outlined below for clarity.
Ergo - I weigh 74kg, always ride solo, don't carry luggage, ride primarily 'B" class roads fairly quickly, never "grab" my brakes (even if I feel serious injury or death may be imminent), prefer a bike that turns in quite fast, and stays settled running fast over rough surfaces (and without transferring that to me).
And I only run sports tyres, 36/40psi or 36/42 (your preference). 40 sticks better, 42 wears better.
So here are the settings that work for me.
Front
Sag (should be) 35mm + 5-10 free
Preload 3 rings out (std 5)
Rebound 4 clicks out (std 8)
Compression 12 clicks out (std 7)
Rear
Sag (should be) 25mm + 10-15 free
Preload 2 rings (std 1.5)
Note: The adjusters are seized, so I've had collars made & fitted equivalent to 2x rings preload (25mm!)
Compression Position 1 (std 2)
Rebound Position 2 (std 2)
As I would still prefer a quicker turn in and feel that some better quality shocks would be beneficial, I have just ordered a set of YSS shocks, which are 25mm longer than standard (355-365mm).
Will post an update with these fitted once I have the bike sorted.
I hope this helps someone.
Hi there,
Did you get the YSS shocks fitted and if so what did you find was the best settings for the same solo rider situation and did you leave the front end as it was before, or did you end up tweaking that too as a result of the rear shocks swap please?
Can anyone?
Recommend a good mechanic in London.North west possibly that I can trust?
Almost, but not quite.
It's polite to introduce yourself at the bar, and then post your question in the appropriate section.
This aint FB.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 21 March 2024, 09:34 AMIt's polite to introduce yourself at the bar, and then post your question in the appropriate section.
After 34 posts ;)
Oops, never saw the intro, my apologies thrn, ill just get back in my box....