Adjust your TPS

[Speedy1959]

My bike also runs fine but for curiosity I checked the TPS readings..
1102 lower and 2550 upper.

So as the others have said forget the upper reading.

[grog]

very strange these tps readings. agree, lower is the main one. smooth running. might fits in both readings, top &bottom. weird that some do, some dont. also agree, if its not broken, dont try and fix.

[Del]

cheers guys confidence in your knowledge is reassuring

I knew I had the lower reading spot on but niggled a bit that the open throttle reading was out - what was concerning me was when riding the bike it can be a little jerky on the throttle on occasion like the bike has shut off - but the overfilling the forks was making the ride exceptionally hard so this could have added to the issues - we will see tomorrow on the morning commute

Del

[Dan B]

That jerky feeling like the bike is shutting off: I was getting that really bad when I was just cruising on half throttle then would open up the throttle.
To fix I cleaned the fuel filters really well and replaced the O-rings to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump (same O-ring sizes)
I don't know if the O-rings helped the issue at hand but cleaning the fuel filters helped out a lot!
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.

[Simonic]

Thank you for some good info. I've just checked mine and it was @900 .The anti tamper bolts were still in situ and looked like they'd never been moved.
Did an adjustment and got it 1102

[Hooli]

In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.

Good call that.

I bridged mine for a while when it was playing up & the bike was damn near unridable at low revs because of how it made it cough & splutter. Drunk fuel like a fish too.

[Speedy1959]

A while ago I read of one or two people on here having clutch switch issues so I did a pre emptive move of replacing a healthy clutch switch..
Rather than wait for a problem I replaced it before the problem happened.
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..

The side stand one is a lot more expensive so that can wait !!
Lol
(Not that I am tight !!!)

[grog]

clutch switch a must. mapping changes if not used. i can actually hear mine change as i move lever out a bit at lights etc. pull back in, reverts to previous map. 

[Simonic]

[quote
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..
[/quote]
How much was it please ?

[Hooli]

A while ago I read of one or two people on here having clutch switch issues so I did a pre emptive move of replacing a healthy clutch switch..
Rather than wait for a problem I replaced it before the problem happened.
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..

The side stand one is a lot more expensive so that can wait !!
Lol
(Not that I am tight !!!)

I filled mine with contact cleaner and got a tiny screwdriver in to scrub the contacts. Still running the original switch now.

[mlivkovich]

 
I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should?  I don't know what else could be problem

[mlivkovich]

Oh, I forgot to say that I did external fuel filter mod (HP filter removed), put new teabag filter and sealed fuel tank and put fresh fuel...

[Andre]

Try an electronic reset (to make the ECU relearn the throttle positions):
1. Disconnect the negativ on the battery
2. Turn ignition on for a few minutes, then off again
3. Reconnect the negative on the battery
4. Turn ignition on
5. Open and close the throttle all the way a couple times
6. Start the engine without moving the throttle

If above does not help check for a vacuum leak.

I currently have this problem myself, running jerky between ~1500-3000 rpm with a fluctuation of ~100 rpm. No fluctuation at idle! However, vacuum leak (on #4 rubber air intake pipe) test increased idle by 200 rpm. Pulled the TB today. No obvious damage to the rubber as far as I can see. Need an inspection mirror to see all of it. The clamps were sitting rather loosely but tightening didn't help.

[mlivkovich]

Thank you Andre! I will try that, hope it will help.

[KiwiCol]

I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should?  I don't know what else could be problem

There has been more than a passing mention of how improved the smoothness of the bike is after new sprockets & chain are fitted. Dunno why it makes such a difference, but it appears it just does.   Might want to bang some new ones on and see how that goes, as you said above, it's due for replacement anyway, so may as well get that done & see how it is then.