Fit Individual (Pod) Air Filters

Started by gsxbarmy, Sunday, 05 February 2017, 11:10 PM

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gsxbarmy

HOW TO Fit Individual (Pod) Air Filters

NOTE (1): This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section

NOTE (2): You will need to remove your air box to fit Pod Filters (this is not covered here)

Some of you have fitted individual air filters to your beasts, and have encountered the problem of getting the filters to fit. The throttle bottles are 43mm and the nearest filter size is 44mm, either K&N or DNA ... but this isn't really a problem as they will seal ok. The problem lies in that the centre to centre distance of the throttle bodies is 70mm ... the filters are around 75mm wide, therefore each filter overlaps into the space required by the other filter by 2.5mm.

One friend used DNA filters and had to sand the inner edges of each of the filters, allowing them to sit together better without pushing on each other so much that they popped off.

Another friend clamped the two outer filters to the throttle bodies, with the inner pair on spacers so that they sat further out from the throttle bodies, which due to the conical shape of the filters gave clearance between the inner and outer filters. I didn't fancy either sanding (wire mesh is very near edge) the filters, or having them at different distances from the throttle bodies, although in practice this probably wouldn't cause a problem.

My solution…..

I had a look at the air box rubbers figuring that I could maybe mod them to allow mounting of the filters. I found when a rubber was removed from the air box that it has a bellmouth shape on the inner air box side. So there I'm sitting with a filter and an air box rubber, wonder what happens if I try and push the bellmouth into the air filter I thought???

The result was that after a bit of squidging and squashing it fitted like a glove, only problem was the bellmouth was kinked ... one press of a finger later and it popped out into the correct shape, thereby locking the air filter and rubber together pretty securely, and since they flex slightly they allow the filters to sit side by side (at a slight angle to each other), hopefully without making them pop off.

So this is how I've mounted mine







Response-1
I just have a couple of questions, the sensor thingy in the air box, what did you do with that?

What sort of HP increase would one see with the pods? How do they go when you ride in the rain?

Next mod to mine is going to be two extra pods on the back of the air box, to let a bit more air into the old girl. I will be interested to see what you get when you put yours on the dyno.

Response from Topic Author
I just to tied it up out of the way, but left it connected ... it means it can still sense the air temp which is required for the fuel injection. As for the rain, shouldn't be a problem as they are hidden behind the side panels, although I may mod them at some point. I had individual filters on my 1200 Bandit which were open to the elements and never had a problem with them.

With regards power, it's not just the pods I've added ... I've removed the PAIR system, will be slotting the pickup plate to give me 4° ignition advance and finally I've had the head skimmed, ported and a three angle valve job. I haven’t put her on a dyno since, so hard to say what power increase (if any) I may get.

I've also got a full 4-2-2 aftermarket system with twin Blue Flame Evo's and of course the obligatory PCIII ... previous power output (with K&N in air box) was about 118bhp at the rear wheel with 97lb/ft of torque ... would be happy with the magic figure of 125bhp and 100ft/lb.

Response-2
I fitted the 2 interior filters to a Stainless tube advancing them approximately 10 mm to make clearance, I actually tried your method before and found the clearance wasn’t enough and that they still popped off! I also used the air box rubbers in conjunction with the stainless tube.

As for the air box sensor, I cut out the part of the air box were the sensor is screwed into & drilled a hole through the tank side of the storage compartment under the seat & then put a bolt through into the already threaded part of the air box this way the sensor is in a fixed position pointing towards the underside of the tank behind the right hand side cover, sorry I can’t post a pic, my computer is a bit screwed up at the moment,

Until I got mine dyno’d she was a bit of a bitch to set up smoothly due to the pods as the air intake quantity is considerably increased, but the induction growl is awesome & well worth the hassle.

I am in the process of cutting some nice slots in the side covers for the optical look of the filters & also to hear the sound as the side covers dampens this a bit.

I recently rode for about 2 hours of waterfall like weather on the motorway, so plenty of water floating around & no problems there with water induction.

Response from Topic Author
If I find that they pop off then I'll probably go your route of mounting them but they seem quite solid at the moment ... pity the Suzuki engineers didn't put a groove round the mounting points on the throttle bodies, would've meant that the rubber had something to grip on to. I'll make a bracket up to mount the sensor on, together with my PCIII ... may even move the electrics to behind the filters underneath the tank (loads of space now air box is gone) ... means I'd be able to get to them by taking out the storage compartment.

Response-3
Can you tell me the part number of the K&N filters you used in your mods? I couldn't sort them in K&N catalogue by appearance.

Response from Topic Author
Couldn't find any K&Ns in the country, so opted to get the DNA filters ... Part number is OV-4404

For K&N, go onto the K&N website and do a search for filters which have a 44mm opening - they don't do 43mm which is the size of the throttle bodies
http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm
Actual Filters - K&N RU-2454
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RU-2454

Response-4
Don’t forget you will need a 5th smaller filter for the pressure box thingy on top of the gearbox as this normally connected to the bottom of the air box. I used a piece of the Mrs stockings as it arrived 2 weeks after the pods.

Pictures of mine fitted



Response from Topic Author
The wire mesh for the panels would finish it off perfectly.

Response-5
Purchased Hein Gericke individual cone filters 46mm . Went about getting original air box out, which was not too bad after picking the courage of hacking it in two. Modded the OEM rubber ram pipes which were fitted to air box to fit the new filters, by taking out the rubber fitting of Hein Gericke filters and fitted the old rubber inserts, fitted nice and tight, used original jubilee clips as HG were slightly too wide.

Just got to relocate air temp sensor, modify the side panels and dyno up again. There’s a hole in frame where OEM air box was mounted on offside just got to enlarge hole and bolt sensor to that.


Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

kja

It would be interesting to see a bike dynoed before (oem airbox) and after with the individual filters, to give a direct comparison.

seth

mine was done with airbox and after with pod filters

very little difference in bhp 1-2 or torque again 1-2
even the graphs were almost the same shape .

i think the benefits of pod filters comes in with moded polished heads (gasflowed)

main difference is the sound

only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

kja

Quote from: seth on Friday, 10 February  2017, 06:11 AM
mine was done with airbox and after with pod filters

very little difference in bhp 1-2 or torque again 1-2
even the graphs were almost the same shape .

i think the benefits of pod filters comes in with moded polished heads (gasflowed)

main difference is the sound

Could you post the dynochart Seth?

seth

I'll see if i can find them or get them
as they were on the old forum  and I'm not sure if i have copies.

only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

Blubber

Does anyone have more information to add to this?

Other filter brand / type?
Do you reuse the original rubbers airbox sides and put a foam filter over it?

Looking into this POD stuff for a future mod / thing to keep me busy  :happy1:

Thanks in advance
Wreck-it Richard - one of the unDutchables

Reece

#6
So do you need to get bike dyno after fittment or is there a way to tune yourself.
And is there really any great advantages to doing this.

No need to dyno - no great advantage, in fact no advantage to power, but the intake sound is to die for..... :onya:

bigian14

Quote from: Blubber on Friday, 10 March  2017, 08:07 PM
Does anyone have more information to add to this?

Other filter brand / type?
Do you reuse the original rubbers airbox sides and put a foam filter over it?

Looking into this POD stuff for a future mod / thing to keep me busy  :happy1:

Thanks in advance
In reply to your message, I used Ramair Foam filters but look like price has increased a far bit in last 6 months. http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/shop/motorcycle/race-pod-air-filters-motorcycle/43mm-ramair-foam-pod-air-filter-universal-motorcycle-scooter-kart-quad-atv-4/
I think I paid around £56 for the set of four.
Unfortunately I didn't take any step by step photos, biggest job is removing the airbox but a hacksaw is your friend  ;)
I originally bought chrome Heine Gericke conical pods, (still have them if anyone's interested), but there is a little interference between them as they are 73mm across the base but centreline distance of throttle bodies is 70mm.
I experimented with using the airbox trumpets and even adding extensions to the outer ones but wasn't happy with the look.
Anyone that has done this mod will know that the throttle bodies are 43mm diameter but DNA, K and N, and Heine Gericke pods nearest size is 44mm.  But Ramair do 43mm ones and the base is rubber and flexible enough that while they still interfere with each other it's safe to assume they won't pop off at any time which was a slight worry with the chrome filters.
Not yet checked set-up on dyno but will be done with upcoming MOT.

Ian

Blubber

Wreck-it Richard - one of the unDutchables

TALLMAN

In the 'how to fit ' the 8 consecutive pics are mine, for the two outside filters  I ran a little bit of transparent bathroom silicon around the inside edge, fitted them and tighten the serflex the next morning they do not pop off, the two inside filters are on a piece of 44mm stainless tube which fits nicely inside half an inlet rubber as per the second pic, they are further forward as can be seen in the 3rd pic, when I was on a dyno here the dyno guy said to me that alot of drag bikes do this, I still havent got around to adding the mesh! yet only seven years since I did them! :boogie:
HONI SOIT QUE MAL Y PENSE       UBIQUE!       QUO FAS ET GLORIA DU****        FACIMUS ET FRANGIMUS

Rh4000

What size is the 5th filter, the small one on the pressure box???

gsxbarmy

#11
Quote from: Rh4000 on Saturday, 31 August  2019, 02:41 AM
What size is the 5th filter, the small one on the pressure box???

From memory, it was a Ripspeed Universal filter that I bought from Halfords (but available elsewhere), when I modified mine, all I added was a circlip to hold it in place securely
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-parts/filtration/air-filters/ripspeed-universal-vent-filter-gauze-chrome-finish-red

Just browsing eBay, I suspect something like this crankcase/vent breather may also possibly fit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12MM-Carbon-Crank-Case-EngIne-Breather-Air-Filter-Car-Motorcycle-Quad-Bike/283453980706?epid=26010596753&hash=item41ff2c8022:g:0SkAAOSw5HBbSCrT
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

Big Geordi

#12
DNA-OV-4404  ;) and use wee mini dremel on side edges  ;)

Big Geordi


Big Geordi


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