How to Strip and Rebuild your Ignition Switch

[Hooli]

Stripped & rebuilt the ignition switch. It was full of crud, the top half around the steering lock was grey sludge and gritty. Down on the contact plate it was brown & sludgy like mud out of a pond. I greased up the steering lock with normal grease, the switch plate with silicon electrical grease & some normal grease on the pivot for the switch. It powers up & runs now, which is nice.

Next trick is to find some replacement connectors for the oil temp switch under the ignition cover. I might just get some 3mm (I think) spades & seal them in with silicon to keep water out. I suspect the right connectors for the mulitplug & the tool to get the old ones are are too expensive to bother for once every 20 years...


- Remove top yoke.
- Drill/drift the blank headed security bolts out to remove the bottom of the switch. I think they were M5 so just use normal replacements.
- Lift out the bits of switch in order, clean them up & lube them lightly with silicon (electrical) grease.
- Lift out the bits of the steering lock, clean them & regrease with normal grease.

As they say in Haynes, reassembly is a reversal of removal (and the bolts to replace at the bottom are M4 x 8mm)

(see also additional information in these threads:
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=321.0
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6270.msg34298#msg34298

For cleaning your Ignition Lock see this thread https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6266.0

[Westcraigs]

Useful article thanks for me getting an idea of what's inside (e.g. that springs and parts won't 'explode' out when taking it apart.

I found the assembly easier to remove by loosening the whole headlight assembly to enable to get in with a T40 Torx security bit allied to a 1/4" drive small ratchet and remove the lock assembly from the top yoke. These two T40 headed bolts have thread sealer on them, but I didn't find it that difficult to extract them. 

[Hooli]

Probably quite true but I didn't know what I was looking at till the yoke was off & didn't have a security Torx that size.

[VladTepes]

OK so I haven't done this yet (dreading pulling all those bits off)
How long of a job is it to pull down, clean etc and reassemble ready to ride? (realistically)

Main issue I am having is that when its in the lock position (steering locked) it is proving almost impossible to unlock the steering/move the switch.

Took 15 minutes yesterday and I was in a hurry too (of course) 
The above will fix this problem?

[Teufel]

Had this problem with a GSXS 1000.

We ground off the locking tabs, which means it doesn't lock any more, but also means you can never be stuck in locked position.
Not very professional, but it was a quick result which is what we needed at the time.
Good luck.

[froudy]

A point to note is that if you are completely stripping the switch and not just the bottom part where the contacts are, be sure to use locksmiths graphite powder to lubricate the key tumbler plates and NOT grease. Grease encourages and attracts dust and dirt and acts like grinding paste which will wear the switch out very rapidly.

[GSXKING]

Have you had any success @VladTepes   

[VladTepes]

Haven't done it yet mate - I'm pretty busy of late.

use locksmiths graphite powder to lubricate the key tumbler plates

Yes the powder I know I have, but can't find... 

[froudy]

Haven't done it yet mate - I'm pretty busy of late.

use locksmiths graphite powder to lubricate the key tumbler plates

Yes the powder I know I have, but can't find... 

Plenty of options listed on Ebay UK, so hopefully some on Ebay down under

[VladTepes]

the powder I know I have, but can't find... 

Plenty of options listed on Ebay UK, so hopefully some on Ebay down under

Nope. I have some not gonna buy it again. Will persist in looking.