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Remove the PAIRS System

Started by gsxbarmy, Tuesday, 07 February 2017, 11:40 PM

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NOTE: This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section

Probably the first thing to understand is what the PAIRS system is, what it does and what effect it will have on your GSX1400 if you remove it.
PAIRS stands for Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System and is Suzuki’s answer to try to beat emission laws without redeveloping their engines. What it does is let air into the exhaust on the overrun to “cleanâ€� up the emissions coming past the exhaust valve. Some of you will notice popping or slight backfires through your exhaust on the overrun â€" this is the PAIRS system kicking in.

Removing it will have no noticeable effect on either power or performance, however it will make your machine run a lot smoother with it disconnected so is a worthwhile mod (you will however lose the “popping� on the overrun.

There are various options for either removing or disabling PAIRS â€" the instructions below show you how to fully remove the system, however there are other options as follows:

1.    Clamp the PAIRS hose shut between the engine cover and the air box. Not very cosmetic, but if you want to see what effect removing PAIRS will have, then this is the easiest mod and takes seconds (it’s no different to what they do when your bike goes on a dyno)

2.    Seal the pipe(s) leading to the PAIRS covers internally. There are a couple of methods of doing this
a.    Remove the air pipe running to the PAIRS cover on the engine, insert a small ball bearing or marble of an appropriate size and refit the air pipe
b.    Remove the air pipe running to the PAIRS cover, and screw an allen screw of the appropriate size into the end of the PAIRS cover, then refit the air pipe

(See HERE for what this looks like)

However if you want to fully remove the PAIRS system, then read on!

I'll assume you've already removed the tank so the top of the engine is exposed â€" and that we are good to start.

1.    First job is undo both PAIRS covers on the top of the engine

2.    If you lift the covers away you will expose the reed valves.

3.    And if you lift the reeds out â€" here’s what the other side looks like

4.    Next job is to disconnect the air hoses off the covers. Before we continue, there are a couple of options here depending on whether you may have purchased a kit (or not) and/or how good you might be at metalwork.

If you have purchased a kit, then typically the kit will come with a replacement cover (it may also come with a blanking plate to replace the reed valve, depending on the kit), so you can discard the PAIRS covers you remove (as you will be fitting the ones from the kit.

But first we need to address the reed valve we have just removed â€" again some options

a.    Put it back in place and leave it there. However do be aware that if left in the reeds still try to move and potentially could break off and end up in the valves â€" whilst no-one has ever reported this happening it is still a possibility. Those who have left them in report that they may also make a noise.
b.    Make a Blanking Plate (recommended option).  If one came with your kit, take the rubber seal carefully off the OEM reed and refit it to the blanking plate supplied with the kit, then fit it back into the reed compartment in the rocker cover. If one did not come with the kit, remove the rubber seal, and make a blanking plate in metal (preferably steel) to the same size and thickness of the reed plate you just removed (2mm sheet works well),  fit the rubber seal to the blanking plate you made and fit to the reed compartment

So having fitted either the original reed assembly back in to the compartment or a blanking plate, if you have purchased a kit fit the PAIRS cover from that kit to seal the reed compartment and continue at point #6. If you do not have a replacement cover, then read on.

5.    We need to “blankâ€� the inlet in the OEM covers. Find a suitable allen screw and screw it into the end where the PAIRS tube was previous fitted. Now refit the covers with the inlet (that you have just blanked off with the allen screw) facing towards the back of the engine.

6.    We have now completed sealing off the reed assembly in the engine. Next step is to disconnect the hose leading to the air box (where the yellow dot is)

7.    And then blank off the pipe in the air box with an appropriately size bolt

8.    Now we need to seal off the air tube running to the injectors. Locate the rubber hose in the middle of this picture (the grey one â€" it’s on the third throttle body to the injectors right) and disconnect it (It may be a little difficult to pull off, as over time it can “stickâ€� to the metal.

9.    And now seal it off using an appropriate sized bolt (it’s best to cut a small length off the pipe just removed to fit an appropriate bolt â€" leave enough length so you can bend the pipe in half once disconnected such that you can seal it in the bent position with a zip tie (see picture). Whilst removing the pipe may seem a bit daft just to reconnect it, it’s easier to seal the pipe this way rather than doing it “in situâ€�

10.    All that remains is to remove the PAIRS system itself. Undo the two bolts holding the PAIRS valve

11.    And drag all this gubbins out.

12.    That’s it! Refit the tank, and take her for a spin!

So in summary â€" this is what you have just done

Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:


Fantastic thread, really nicely done.
Vlad's K7 "Back in Black"

As a Pink Floyd fan, I get annoyed when I see vegetarians eating pudding.

YouTubeLandyVlad Rides


Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:


only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore


Quote from: seth on Wednesday, 08 February  2017, 11:37 PM

hopefully this link works
these pairs valve removal kits are for a hayabusa but they fit the gsx1400


They are really nice and are what I had fitted to my 14 - although they are only PAIRS covers (with screws), you still need to make your own blanking plates and find screws for blanking off the air box and injector rail. But look very good fitted I have to say!
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:


your right dave .
nice piece of kit

out of interest when i fitted my pairs blanking plates i didnt use the spacer that came with it .
instead i removed the read valves from the holders then refitted the holders below the blanking plates.
just a light smear of sealer on it and was a much better fit and seal that way .

only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore


A.P.E gen 2 hayabusa billet block off plates, anodised blue, a smear of Suzuki bond and sorted, plug the airbox and junk the rest.


Hey Seth and Kja

I've just taken my pairs system off the bike today, and removed the reads and refitted the read plates , and a light bit of sealant . I got the plates from fleabay that was on this site , all done and running nice and smooth   Cool 😎  :clapping:  :onya: so I am in the pairless group lol 😂
look check and look again  then you see the fool


glad it helped
i think thats the easiest way to fit them

only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore


After reading gsxbarmeys excerlent right up am thinking of blocking of the pairs system (block pipes of ) .am i right to think this will carm down the slight poping etc that i seem to get on over run at about 2000 ish revs that sort of makes it a bit lumpy ?


I tryed this mod and to be honest i realy did not notice much diffrence so ive returned my k7 to standard. i blocked the pipes up air tight whent for a blast but didont realy notice any difrence


Should have made delivery smoother Mark - everyone else that has done this mod has reckoned it worthwhile. Still there has to be a first I guess!
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:


Yer gsxbarmey i tryed it rode for a hour all speeds in start stop traffic let it tick over no diffrence noticed by me il save me cash was testing before i bought the kit


if anyone interested - find on ebay. Price seems OK:


That's the kit I used and recommended elsewhere in the forum. I liked the fact it came with the caps to blank off the airbox and vacuum nipple, although these can be sourced separately for other kits. I definitely noticed a difference after fitting too. Popping was significantly reduced too, though I'm pleased to say not completely eliminated.

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