Head bearings settings?

[Speedy1959]

I wasn't sure which section this would go in , so please adjust as needed..

When I recently greased my head bearings (2008 model UK) I adjusted the tension as the manual states.. BUT..
After re reading a few days later I noticed that the instructions reffered to the earlier models with Ball bearings in the steering head!
Has anyone got the correct infot on the later needle Bearings (in case there is a difference)?
S.

[Hooli]

There's a setting?

It shouldn't matter as far as I'm aware, you need them to function the same way with either type of bearing. The nearest to a setting I've ever used is with the front end in the air, knocking it just off centre means the steering falls to full lock.

[Andre]

This is how I do it for needle bearings:

After installing the lower fork bridge, tighten the steering stem adjusting nut with approximately 3-5Nm (3-5Nm vs. 45 Nm - that's the main difference for needle  vs. ball bearings)


Next, the upper fork bridge is mounted and the steering stem head nut (the chrome nut) put on and slightly tightened. Insert the stanchions into the bridges, align in height and clamp the upper fork bridge.

Assemble the vehicle wheel, brake, etc.(see the * below), except for clamping the lower ones
Tighten the steering stem head nut(65 Nm).

Rotate the fork from stop to stop several times so that the rollers in the bearing are pushed back and now rest against the rims of the inner ring.

Here is how I test for correct tightness (IMO much more accurate than with the spring scale):

Front up so the wheel is off the ground and fork can be pivoted. Turn the fork to a stop (*), then positioned away from the stop to half-turned, then let go of the handlebars, now the fork must drop to the stop. Then turn the fork to the center and from center turn to half set, let go, the fork must stop and must not fall against the stop.

(*) With the wire loom installed completely into the lamp housing this method (as well as the one in the service manual) is inaccurate as the loom exerts force. Also throttle cables and clutch hose need to be out of the way.

Should you need to change the bearing setting, loosen the steering stem head nut and
adjust the adjusting nut in small steps (half the groove width) then tighten the steering stem head nut again with the same torque and check again (check only with
tightened steering stem head nut) the setting should be correct.

Tighten the clamp screws of the lower fork bridge.

[grog]

Agree with Hooli, Andre. I did the spring balance thing, waste of time. Tapered rollers just need a touch of pre load. Tighten until seated, maybe then another one or two notches.Hammer n punch easy way. Check bars for what said above. Re check after a decent ride, then forget for a long time.

[Speedy1959]

Thank you all for your input..

S

[Nic]

For what it's worth, I have found it is SO easy to over tighten them. I can over tighten just by hand, I do the thing up until I feel the contact and then at most, a bees's dick more. Probably what grog said.
Go for a ride, if the head seems to have it's own lungs at slow speeds it's too tight. Own lungs you ask, wanders.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

When I did mine after the originals froze up on me after a rainy ride home, all I did was did up the main head nut to spec then checked the fall either side, was ok then fitted the top nut has been fin ever since.