Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[gsxbarmy]

There are some risers out there that also come back towards the rider. Have a google & see what's around, reckon the right sort would help.

Thanks. I wondered if there was something like that available so it would sit me a bit more upright.

If you want adjustable tilt have a look at Rox Risers - they do a variety of risers which both raise (about 50mm) and enable you to tilt the bars back towards you 

If not the other option is to replace the OEM risers with risers that move the bars back, for example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SW-Motech-Up-Back-Barback-Handlebar-Risers-Silver-SUZUKI-GSX1400-2001-2006-/321440918031?epid=648092260&hash=item4ad75f2a0f:g:C4EAAOSw-nZTpzuM

There used to be others on eBay, but not presently when I looked on eBay.

[Kiwifruit]

Be mindful of brake and clutch lines. I found they didnt give me a lot of room for risers. Think mine are only 20mm, which still make quite a difference.

[IanH]

Good info.....many thanks.

[gsxbarmy]

Be mindful of brake and clutch lines. I found they didnt give me a lot of room for risers. Think mine are only 20mm, which still make quite a difference.

Good point - when I fitted my risers I had already fitted Goodridge brake and clutch lines and had no issues, but the Rox Risers I suggested at 50mm raise may put a bit of stretch on. Likewise throttle cables possibly

[grog]

i had 30mm risers on mine , didnt like at all. sitting up like a harley rider. stock bars and risers now. perfect for me, 175cm tall. thinking about it, my seat is 30 to 40mm lower, guess thats why. best riding position ive had on any bike. pegs, gear lever etc just in right spot. i hated stock seat, slide around etc. maybe change seat and not bars etc. a pic of mine somewhere on here.

[Red Biker]

Hi Ian
You may also want to consider getting your seat built to your size shape!

It's the old mountain/Mohamed conundrum 👍

Thanks Red. That was going to be my second option. I was looking at those fancy seats made by some company in France. They look comfortable and nice. Only downside is they are expensive and not made to measure. Possibly I could look for second hand seat base and maybe one of the auto upholstery people might be able to do something for me.

I paid £225 for a complete new viper seat inc base from P&P and then sold the original for £100, so real cost is only £125 inc gel. I went back twice for further adjustments at no extra cost 

Red

[grog]

today just some basic stuff. cleaned/lubed chain. handlebar switches apart, cleaned and lubed with lanomax. keeps water out. checked head bearing pull with scales, digital hook on and pull thingo. re adjust throttle cables, tight as with no rev variation lock to lock. polished wheels, mr sheen. rode home with lots of bugs flying around. cold this morn, mirrors fogged up but today up to nearly 28. summer coming early. love the sound of oiled chain. enjoyed my ride. perfect bike makes perfect life.

[Mick_J]

I took the front wheel off along with the mudguard.  Then I stripped the lacquer off the fork legs and gave them a bit of a polish as they were starting to look a bit grubby, then I removed my disks as one was warped and replaced them, fitted new pads and rebuilt the front end.  Then I replaced the rear pads as they were shagged, bled the bike and just need to give it a test run.

[Red Biker]

I took the front wheel off along with the mudguard.  Then I stripped the lacquer off the fork legs and gave them a bit of a polish as they were starting to look a bit grubby, then I removed my disks as one was warped and replaced them, fitted new pads and rebuilt the front end.  Then I replaced the rear pads as they were shagged, bled the bike and just need to give it a test run.

What discs/pads did you go with MJ?

[Hooli]

I realised I'll have owned it 10 years in October. Guess I'll have to wash it & do a before/after pic to show what prolonged abuse does to them.

[Buddynq]

today, my headlight been not coming on everytime. hard wired, no switch. didnt light up at all this morn. noticed the passing switch, yellow in front, not working. spent an hour, every plug on bike apart, blasted with wd40 and re plugged. light back on. pulled fuses , cleaned and re fitted. passing switch comes out of housing, cleaned contacts with tiny file, wd blast. working again. turned bike on/off 20 times, headlight on every time. hoping was just a dirty connection somewhere. time will tell. some connector plugs were very dirty, my reco. is pull them apart, spray clean and re fit. i used wd40, not sure if thats correct but thats what i used. any other recos. ill take on board. i mean a better product for wiring plugs. thanks grog

Ah - My yellow passing (flash warning) switch not coming on either. Will try your method.

Otherwise, after taking me 80yo mother for a spin up and down the Gillies Twisties I have put the bike on paddock stands ready to do something. Maybe clean it. Just need to get motivated

[Andre]

today, my headlight been not coming on everytime. hard wired, no switch. didnt light up at all this morn. noticed the passing switch, yellow in front, not working. spent an hour, every plug on bike apart, blasted with wd40 and re plugged. light back on. pulled fuses , cleaned and re fitted. passing switch comes out of housing, cleaned contacts with tiny file, wd blast. working again. turned bike on/off 20 times, headlight on every time. hoping was just a dirty connection somewhere. time will tell. some connector plugs were very dirty, my reco. is pull them apart, spray clean and re fit. i used wd40, not sure if thats correct but thats what i used. any other recos. ill take on board. i mean a better product for wiring plugs. thanks grog

Agree with WD40 but not with file. I use small amount of Autosol Metal Polish on cotton swab to clean contacts I can get to, then squirt with WD40, wipe off, then another bit of WD40 . Works great without inadvertently removing/scratching some of the the copper.

[Mick_J]

I took the front wheel off along with the mudguard.  Then I stripped the lacquer off the fork legs and gave them a bit of a polish as they were starting to look a bit grubby, then I removed my disks as one was warped and replaced them, fitted new pads and rebuilt the front end.  Then I replaced the rear pads as they were shagged, bled the bike and just need to give it a test run.

What discs/pads did you go with MJ?

I finally ended up going for EBC X disks (£117 each from demon tweeks) and although I bought Goldfren S33 pads M&P were out of stock so sent me ferodo gold sintered HH pads as a free upgrade.  What really surprised me though was I went out for a quick test yesterday (between showers) and only did 6 miles but the disks are all scratched up now.  So I have a brand new pair of scratched up disks and no warping anymore.

[Andre]

Scratches are from dirt picked up which is more so on wet than dry roads.

[VladTepes]

Fixed the indicator that came loose in the 'drop'.