Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[DTTW]

Front forks (in case anyone is interested): Wilbers progressive springs, Liqui Moly 7.5w (22.1 mm²/s) fork oil, air gap 150mm, preload 5 rings, rebound 3 out, compression 9 out.

@Andre I have Wilbers as well. Forgot how I initially measured the gap when I changed the springs. Just checked their website, Air gap 160mm. How do you measure the gap? I'm planning to change the oil

[Andre]

Should have mentioned that mine is a K2.

Different air gaps depending on model year:

K2-K4 150mm
K5-K7 160mm

I adjust with a fork oil level gauge. Stanchion (inner tube) all the way down into outer tube. Adjustment rod installed. See service manual page 6-18 (available in forum download section).

[Hooli]

I use the internal measuring 'sticky out rod' bit of a vernier rather than buying the right tool, but use it in exactly the same manner.

[GSXKING]

That rebuild/service price sounds exorbitant   
I don't think I've ever paid more than $200 AUS for both shocks.
Is there an option of a second opinion ?

[grog]

Dave 55, another choice. Aussie made, adjustable, rebuildable. Used to be Koni. Never heard anyone use on 14 but others give good reviews. I had similar on GS1000, were excellent. Priced very well. https://ikonshocks.co.uk/shop/7610-1636/

[DTTW]

Fitted new chain and sprockets with new front sprocket washer and a nut, overkill? 

Took the flasher control thing off as the knob did not return to neutral position, gave the internals a bath and smeared with contact grease. Now working as it should. Cleaned the clutch contacts, and forget to put the connectors back. Only noticed when out on the bike with full gear and almost 30 degree Celsius.

Installed an extra ground wire 6mm2 from battery to engine, cleaned battery wires and ground wires and smeared with contact grease. Idle charging voltage increased some 0.3V so now around 14.5 Volts.

Lubed throttle cables and moving parts of throttle body.

I don't know what caused the following, but I can now cruise in town on 6th gear (or any gear for that matter) just above idle and she does not sputter or complain. Also I got back the whole rev range from idle to 2500 rpm. It has been real PITA to drive in that range, no silky smooth.   

Just pure love when she is adjusted to perfection. 

Oh, put some more air to rear wheel, now 42 psi and feels nice. First time trying with that pressure

[seth]

DTTW hope you also replaced the sprocket carrier bearing too (they arent great and standard one's can go in as little as 15k miles) as thats the only weak part left that could cause problems

[DTTW]

I'm currently pushing my luck with All Balls sprocket carrier bearing, 20k on that one. It seemed fine so being the cheap bastard I am thought I'll change all the wheel bearing during coming winter. I've got Koyo set ready waiting to be installed. About that, does the front wheel bearing need some special attention as I just heard from a friend that it is possible to drive the bearing too deep in the recess?

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Correct, need to watch that, otherwise you end up with a 2-3mm offset on the lhs of the front wheel. Ask me how I know.

From what i remember, the RH bearing sits flush with the face of the hub, not recessed in. Check the manual, it's stated in there I'm sure.

[Hooli]

That's news to me with the front bearings, I just drove mine in till they seated & everything lines up.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I thought so too mate, but when I did that, the lh axle spigot, the alloy bit that sits inside the lower shock clamp was sticking proud, this was because the rh bearing was sitting too far inwards. I have to correct my post above, it's the rh bearing that needs to sit flush, not the lh one.  This also allows the crush tube between l and R bearings to be free-er.


KC Edit: Post modified Eric

[grog]

Not sure i can see what went wrong. LH brg is driven in until seats, spacer fitted, RH then driven until it seats on spacer, thats it. Fit seals, job done.

[hard road]

its a very common thing on front wheel bearings, one bearing will be driven all the way in till it stops but the other bearing is held of by the spacer. you need to know which side goes all the way in.

[Irish in Oz]

Note clearance in diagram.

[Hooli]

Well I never, I might look at mine to see if the wheel is central but I'm pretty sure it is from fitting brake pads - I'd have noticed if the pads sat differently in the calliper to normal.