Continuing - So what did you do to your bike today...?

[Tony Nitrous]

There's an electric "startler" kit for Hayabusa's.

Bike runs two 12 volt batteries.

One is used as normal, everything runs 12v just as Suzuki intended.
The 2nd battery is inline on the starter so when the starter is fed it get 24v.

It's designed for hi comp race motors and motors that get lazy when starting hot.

There are several different kits and conversions.
I'd imagine a double battery 24v feed would wake a starter motor up.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Bike just clicked over 40,000km, 8000 of those are mine.
Replacing the clutch friction plates with EBC std and springs with EBC heavy duty items plus putting through a clutch master and slave cylinder kit, fresh oil charge and will swing a torque wrench over every major chassis bolt.

Still on the list is new brake and clutch lines (goodridge stainless in black or smoke) and getting the forks done (new oil and seals).

New tyres mid year

[seth]

@Eric GSX1400K3
Was your clutch worn at that mileage ?
My tuned 14 is over 57000 on original clutch .
Main problems with the clutch are slave cylinder sticking but a strip clean soon sort that.
Also add @gsxbarmy's clutch mod of the extra seal from a busa to save future problems .

[Hooli]

Aye why change the clutch? mine's all original & has never been out at 125k miles without issues. The only thing I've need to do is clean & rebuild the slave a few times, that's still on it's original seals though.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

I'm getting clutch grab/slip at lower engine speeds, especially when engine braking.  When I pulled out the friction and drive plates, the inner two drive plates (closest to the crank) showed some uneven wear (shiny and rough spots). Also the last clutch plate was not offset into the next slot as per the Service Manual, and the basket cover/spring retainer was not aligned to the clutch basket. Some emery paper fixed the shiny spots.

Don't know who assembled the clutch like that, hoping that the above will cure the issue.

I agree that it seems a little early, being a wet clutch and all...

[Hooli]

I had clutch slip with a cold engine for a while, it turned out to be the slave blocked up with roadshite.

Hopefully yours is sorted now.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

Thanks, will know at the weekend when I finish it. Stripped the master cylinder tonight, slave cylinder tomorrow and then put it all back together Sat.

[Slowpoke]

Took off forks and sent away for rechrome & tidy up.

[Notty]

Callipers removed and sent off to bonny Scotland for Del to do his magic paintwork 
@Del

[seth]

Great news @Notty I know you'll get a fantastic job back from @Del .
 

[Mrg]

Fitted the hid set on to my new White and blue bitch and new indicators as well ,and going to work on her first time it's going to do this run nice weather for it tomorrow so see how it goes 

[Hooli]

I never had any luck with HID kits. The high voltage wire out the back of the lamp always cracked because it was pressed up tight against the back of the headlight bowl & the lamp failed after a few months.

I'm on LEDs now, as suggested by Barmy. They also don't run as hot which is good as I've got a discoloured patch on my reflector from the HIDs.

[Kiwifruit]

How much of an improvement do you find with the LED Hooli ?
Using Narva 60/55 Arctic White Plus 50 at present.

[Hooli]

Well I can see where I'm going, which is impossible with the normal bulb.

[KiwiCol]

How much of an improvement do you find with the LED Hooli ?
Using Narva 60/55 Arctic White Plus 50 at present.

You can get those bulbs in plus 120 and plus 130 Col.  I've put +130's in the blue, they work real good & still draw the same current.  My headlight assembly has a bulb for low & a different one for high. On high beam, both bulbs are going & light up real well.