Cylinder pressure - 130PSI

Started by vonny232, Thursday, 16 May 2019, 07:56 PM

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vonny232

#15
Cheers Folks,

I was not aware of a "washing" or "detergent" style oil. Thats an interesting thought about de-sooting the rings.

Any recommendations of detergent Oil which are available in the UK/Ireland?  Im not sure Mobil Delvac is available here?

p.s. I read online that some detergent Oils can be counter productive, as it adds additional buildup thanks to the additional chemicals???

Mick_J

The biggest problem when switching to a high deterget oil is with old, high mileage models as the detrgent washes out all the stuff thats keeping the old engine running so can cause real problems but you should be okay at just 26k.  You dont have to keep using it if/when your engine frees up just switch back to a good oil (open another can of worms).
Keep the rubber side down.          Mick

T 24

#17
Most diesel engine oils are washing for that soot what diesel engines produce more than petrol engines.
Mobil Delvac MX 15W40 is one good, Teboil SHPD 15W40(maybe you can't find it from there, I have used that)
Castrol has same kind of oils(Idont know their types).
Most washing oil I know is old Shell X-100, but I haven't tried it in 14, only in older bikes, it's good also for slipping clutch plates.
Heavy duty diesel oils contain also enough zinc, 1300 to 1600 ppm.

vonny232

God im learning more and more here...

I didnt know you could put diesel oil in a bike.

And how about simply using engine cleaner solution to flush the cylinders instead of a washing Oil? i.e. draining the oil and pouring the stuff in whille cranking the engine over? I read some people pour a mix of engine cleaner and oil or even an oil/petrol mix into the cylinder (though the plug hole), leave it a few days and then crank it over to flush away the crud?

I know it sounds a bit mad but thats google for you :)

Andre


Andre

Quote from: vonny232 on Friday, 17 May  2019, 06:18 PM
Cheers, yeah I was thinking evenly low pressure though the mileage is just 26,000 (and that seems legit as I have the MOT history).

So, which Semi Sythetic has the lowest (best?) NOACK?

I don't know about semi-synthetic. The full-synthetic I use has a NOACK of 5%. An oil with API SN specification must not have a higher NOACK than 15%.

I suggest you pick semi-synthetic oils that are available to you and then use your friend google to find out. Put in the oil you are searching for, followed by pdf. That usually get you to the product information sheets. Not all list the NOACK (and many of the data available for that oil) as they like to keep less positive data to themselves.

Andre

With a bore scope you can inspect the combustion chambers so you can see how much carbon build-up you got. There are cheap ones that you can hook up to a smart-phone. Usually they don't have the ability to turn the head-optic. Without that ability you will not see the valves (only see the piston top).

IF you have excessive carbon build-up (some is normal) I doubt that you will get rid of it in a short time - if at all - with an oil with high detergent value. I think that diesel oil as advised by T24 will be helpful. Synthetic oils also have a very good cleaning property without the need for a bunch of detergent additives. However, you need high detergent values to keep the loosened particles in suspension (and hope the bigger ones get filtered out by the oil filter before they make your clutch slip or collect in the smaller oil passge ways.  There are also engine (oil) flush treatments. There are also cleaners you can pour into the tank that claim to reduce carbon (are they worth it???) But I doubt any of them will greatly decrease carbon build-up on valves and pistons. IMO the only way to remove excessive carbon is to do it manually. LOTS of f.....g FUN.

The big question to me is: Are those PSI readings reliable? That is where I would get started first.

seth

#22
Regarding the psi's
From what I know as long as they are not very low the main thing is they are all very simular to each other.
A bit like balancing carbs/throttle bodies the reading isn't  as import as that they match(or are very close).
As for carbon build up and engine life .
Others here have massive mileages and things seam fine I guess once folk start stripping motors with high mileages things will become clearer.
Highly modified motors might be a different case .
Lastly I think motors with modified exhausts and not sorting out the fueling(even if it's running ok) makes the bikes run at a non-optimum temperature affecting things.

Using good quality (non expensive) oil and regular changes is the best thing to keep your motor in top condition .
:cheers:
only a slightly modified gsx1400
oh and a standard one too

Sethbot Postwhore

vonny232

Cheers for the replies folks. Ill just monitor the Oil levels for the next month and see what happens then. I certainly dont want to perform any expensive interventions or repairs anytime soon.

One other point - I have non standard exuasts (ART cans with a pretty large bore and no DB killers, loud as hell). Not sure if that will affect Oil usage??

grog

Andre, point taken. 5.7 litres it is.

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